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Emergency; Mastiff puppies attacking horses!

digbydisaster

Active Member
Hello Everyone,
I am writing with my fingers crossed that someone can help us, we really need advice. I have a big problem at the moment with my dogs that have started to chase livestock and horses, and it has now become dangerous. I am sorry it is so lengthy but thought it best to fill in all the details!

The back ground to this is that I have two beautiful Neapolitan mastiff puppies (bitches, 17 weeks old) that I have had since they were 7 weeks old. We bought the puppies following a nasty robbery at our farm (we own a ranch in rural Ecuador, South America) and decided we needed some good guard dogs. We chose mastiffs specifically because they are good family and guard dogs and we also have Chihuahuas and mastiffs have a reputation of being gentle giants.

I am a firm devotee of positive only dog training methods and the mastiffs have been trained around 15 minutes every day (several sessions) with a clicker. They are progressing well with sit stay, down stay, recalls, eye contact and leave. They also walk well on a loose lead. They also get 2 walks a day of 20-30 minutes, which will increase as they mature. We work on the ranch all day so they are with us (or can be if they choose) for most of the time every day unless we leave the ranch for the day which is perhaps twice a week. They are outside dogs (there are another 2 older, rescue, outside dogs), but have huge comfy beds beside our front door and we spend most evenings outside with them on the veranda.

Everything was fine with the puppies until two weeks ago. The puppies had been on our ranch with the goats and horses with no problems at all since we got them. They used to play in the goat paddock which is besides our garden and never take any notice of the goats. We also have 5 horses which are in fields surrounding the house and garden, again with no issues. The trouble began because my partner brought our other 2 Chihuahuas from England 4 weeks ago. One is a rescue (Indy) and is very vocal and aggressive towards other dogs in general. However she settled in here no problem with the other dogs (her mate and 2 daughters, plus the bigger dogs). She loves to chase cats (we have 4 rescue cats) and bark at the goats and horses, which then starts all 4 of the Chihuahuas doing this and initially the other dogs did not follow.

The big trouble started around 10 days ago when we came back from walking the 8 dogs and were walking past the 3 goats that had been tied out to graze. Indy started chasing and barking the goats and the mastiffs joined in and before we knew what was happening, they had bitten the goats and were “locked onâ€, with jaws clamped down on the poor goats which was very difficult to remove despite my fingers in her mouth prizing them apart, and my partner scruffing her neck, at this point they were ignoring any commands, and basically all hell broke loose.

To cut a long story short, this has become an increasingly worse problem in a matter of days, attacks on the goats have occurred several times and which culminated today with one of our horses being bitten by a mastiff which was hanging off its belly, he kicked the puppy and we managed to wrestle the mastiff to the ground and sort the situation out.

I cannot believe that our lovely girls have turned into such animal bothering dogs in such a short time with just the provocation of the new Chihuahuas. I was shocked that they would try anything with a horse as they are so much larger. We have tried to minimize the situations that would invite trouble, for instance only moving the goats once the mastiffs are away on a walk, as until today, the mastiffs would only try anything with the goats if they were walking or moving near them. The goats sleep in a paddock next to the garden but the mastiffs had not bothered going into the paddock by themselves which they could easily do at night if they chose to. We also ensure that the Chihuahuas are shut in the house before any animal moving takes place. For the first time today, one of the mastiffs took herself off into the goat paddock and attacked the goats. No other dogs were involved or provoked this attack.

I would love the advice of a professional, but we simply do not have any dog trainers here in Ecuador, let alone positive ones. I am terrified that the mastiffs will start to attack the horses in the fields. We have now ensured our garden (which is 2 acres so they have plenty of space still) is dog proof so that the mastiffs cannot get out and cause trouble but I was hoping to be able to ride out with the dogs and exercise them when they are older, I do not want to have to keep the mastiffs and horses apart. I know that we need to work on our training more so that they obey the “leave†command or the recall when it is used but does anyone have any advice on how to de-sensitize them to the goats and horses? Or any advice on how to deal with their behavior if they are (god forbid) ever attacking and locked onto one of our animals again? How should they be reprimanded in such a serious situation? I understand that working against a dogs prey drive is difficult but this has only been happening for such a short period of time, I am hoping someone might be able to offer some training ideas to de-sensitize the mastiffs. Many thanks in advance.
 

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
Welcome aboard~ You have quite a pack at your home! I'm sorry to hear about the high prey drive of your 2 Neo's. :(

I cannot offer any suggestions. Robtouw is a member on the board and she has horses and a mastiff, perhaps she will be able to help you out.

I hope you find a solution.
 

digbydisaster

Active Member
Thanks for the reply. I posted my question on some other dog forums and everyone has been entirely negative! We keep the chihuahuas well out of the way now and are working hard on our obedience , would just love some advice on further training, not just being told to re-home them :(
 

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply. I posted my question on some other dog forums and everyone has been entirely negative! We keep the chihuahuas well out of the way now and are working hard on our obedience , would just love some advice on further training, not just being told to re-home them :(
Absolutely, why re-home them? Re-homing would probably be a last and final option for you, right?
 

joshuagough

Well-Known Member
Are you open to learning correction training for your girls? There's nothing wrong with positive training, it's a great tool however your girls are acting out of instinct, what's wrong by you isn't necessarily wrong by them.

Just as a child learns, pups can learn the same.
 

Kimbersmama

Well-Known Member
I don't know if I'm considered cruel for doing this, but:

We had a mix named Capone who had some similar issues. Whenever he would bite at the other animals, we'd muzzle him and he hated it. After a couple weeks of the muzzling, he calmed down. It was a mesh muzzle and it wasn't left on long. Just long enough for him to realize that if he bit, he got muzzled. He never drew blood though. Whenever he started staying calm around the other animals, we'd reward him for it. Treats & praise. Sounds like you need to get the chi to cool his jets though because it'll be difficult to get them to stop if another dog is doing the same.
 

mountainfila

Well-Known Member
I would long line them with a choker or prong on ,one at a time and set them up to be near the goats or horses and when they go to make a move to chase or even look in the direction i would give them a good correction and tell them "no" or "leave it", do this seperately with all the dogs that are getting excited by the animals. Even the little ones need corrections.
 

Dakota Kid

Well-Known Member
You have quite the crew!
I have no experience in a situation like this, but I immediately thought both Kimbersmama and MountainFila's suggestions. Muzzle them so you know they will not be able to bite another animal and train all dogs one by one around the goats and horses. The muzzle will help keep you calm and the dogs will pick up on the calm energy you use. Use your clicker training and treats/love when they are doing what you want along with the no/leave it corrections. Start training with one dog at a time, then add another, then another, etc. See which pairing of dogs work good together and which ones cause trouble. Usually the more mellow one would be best to start mixing in with the multiple dog training. I would leave muzzles and leashes on anytime they are out of their garden.
 

cinnamon roll

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
I do not think this is cruel at all. :)

I don't know if I'm considered cruel for doing this, but:

We had a mix named Capone who had some similar issues. Whenever he would bite at the other animals, we'd muzzle him and he hated it. After a couple weeks of the muzzling, he calmed down. It was a mesh muzzle and it wasn't left on long. Just long enough for him to realize that if he bit, he got muzzled. He never drew blood though. Whenever he started staying calm around the other animals, we'd reward him for it. Treats & praise. Sounds like you need to get the chi to cool his jets though because it'll be difficult to get them to stop if another dog is doing the same.

That is a very good suggestion. I bet she would have a great outcome using this. As they have to learn that this behavior is completely unacceptable and will not be tolerated. :) This forum rocks

I would long line them with a choker or prong on ,one at a time and set them up to be near the goats or horses and when they go to make a move to chase or even look in the direction i would give them a good correction and tell them "no" or "leave it", do this seperately with all the dogs that are getting excited by the animals. Even the little ones need corrections.
 

Duetsche_Doggen

Well-Known Member
I agree with Josh. It sounds like these dogs have never been taught boundaries. Rehome them? Wow.....lol. Just work on their OB and start setting boundaries and watch the change. Welcome to the forum BTW. :)
 

DennasMom

Well-Known Member
Yeah, re-home 17 week old puppies? for what? being blank-slate instinctual puppies??
Sounds like they "hear" what the Chi's are yelling better than they "hear" the humans... you just need to adjust their hearing a bit. :)

I agree with the great suggestions above.
The other thing I'll toss in the ring, is to somehow communicate to the dogs that the horses and goats are "family"... to be protected!!
The only example I have is our cat... when introducing the puppy, I would hold the cat and make her a part of me... "love me, love my cat" (LOL).
When the cat was let go (to run like the dickens to her 'safe-room' away from the puppy), the puppy was not allowed to chase, but rewarded for just watching her leave, and then looking back to me for direction.

I agree with the suggestion to work each puppy independently, and also use a muzzle (to lessen your anxiety and help the puppy remain calm). Work on "focus" / "look at me", lots of "leave it" - and have a plan for when you see "the look" come over them - i.e. have a way to snap them out of it and then maybe somewhere to send them (back to the garden area?) to await further instruction.

I know Cesar Milan took a few rotties through sheep herding exercises on some of his shows... some of them initially wanted to 'hunt' the sheep... but when they were corrected for that behavior, the herding instincts took over... I think you just need to 'shift the gears' for your puppies... from hunter to guardian... hopefully you'll find the right communication that they'll "hear" and it will click for them soon.

Welcome to the forum!
 

CeeCee

Well-Known Member
If I read it right, the Chihuahuas started the excitement that caused the Neos to redirect onto the livestock. I agree with the others - muzzle and leash the Neos and leash the Chihuahuas. Everyone needs to learn to remain calm around the livestock and all the animals are off limits.

If you don't already know, you want to identify how close each dog can be to the goats and horses BEFORE they get excited. You're going to want to keep the dogs under their individual thresholds. Reward them for being calm and watching you. As they become comfortable seeing the other animals and not reacting, you can start to move them closer and closer.

When the dogs can be next to the other animals and remain calm, I would start walking them all together as a pack. I would also walk the dogs behind the horses. I don't know, can you walk goats? If you can, include them in the walk. I'd keep everyone muzzled and leashed until everyone has proven that they will remain calm and non-reactive.

I would also make sure all the dogs have a rock solid call off i.e., "leave it" and "come."

I'm not professional trainer, this is just my 2 cents.

Finally, when you get to the point where everyone is walking together make sure someone takes a picture and shares it with us. :D
 
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2nd Chance

Well-Known Member
Please ignore most folks, who talk of positive only methods.
If i took your dog, and did some basic walk past with horses, and it lunged for horse, and i kicked the dog in the head. THAT is positive training. positive means you add something.

Take off your pet owers attitude, and get with working dog attitude, and start from scratch. As from what you have written, you've used the following "intro to livestock training methods"
luck
and
ignorance
and you are paying the price.

So how about back to basics.
Before training, we have management of situations....
Separate animals safely, securely.
Muzzle train pups.
Make secure enclosures for all dogs, and only work 1 dog at a time.
Keep barkers inside, so they dont get to incite riot, sounding alarms barks and causing havoc.
Consider E collar higher. Or prong collar purchase. These are positive training methods. Positive means any behaviour/trick/phrase/signal that you ADD in. If you took something away that would be negative.

Corrections. You are going to have to get your head around, this is a life or death situation, that you have created by moving predator and game into the same living space, with no training or planning.

that chase bite ahhhhh feeling a predator gets, is heady stuff. very reinforcing. So prevention should be your no. 1 aim.

then exposure to trigger, and new learning responses are trained.
What i mean is, get 1 pup, and least reactive horse. Put horse one side of fence, you with leashed dog on other side. Approach horse, dog may look, sniff, look alert, (drive initiation) and you ask your dog to look at you, and praise and reward. Walk back n forth, till you have bored the arse off your dog, who now doesnt react to a horse, from 30 paces, 20 paces, 10 paces away etc.

Then get in same paddock. Repeat. Loads of praise for non attentive to horse behaviour.
Any lunges, barks, standing stiff, full on staring, pulling on leash. And BANG correction applied, and immediately guide your dog into correct behaviour. Obedience school 101 style.
I am not a very stern kinda person. And had to learn a new voice for corrections. That 'tone' only gets used when im really pissed at my dogs, like safety scenarios. Our pups, of same age, understand this voice is correction, and start grovelling when i bring it out. Use is sparingly. Or it ceases to have an effect if you are the sort that raises voices at dogs frequently.

Remember you dont have to shout a correction, dogs have amazing hearing. I like to use the word C xx T, so i definitely whisper this one. But my dogs react to that word sound, like they know what ive just said. My corrections are rapid, definate, short sharp shock. Be it a word, a stimulation collar, or a bucket of water over your head.

Brian got rehomed from a breakers yard, to my house, in an emergency seizing of dog. No training, surrounded by wildlife, and stock, and we live in a wetland bird sanctuary, with roos and poisonous snakes. EEEEk
But we got there, gradually, with lots of counter conditioning for Brian: exposure to prey item, prey drive initiation, then taking him from prey drive to pack drive, by refocussing him and rewarding pack drive.
On leash, till he finally got, that just coz you can catch animals, doesnt mean you can.

I have 2 adjoining dairy farms and farmers have guns who shoot first when it comes to worrying livestock here, and rightfully so. Kangaroos that will disembowel a dog easily if dog attempts to stalk/attack, and snakes that look really interesting, but mustnt be touched, i have yet to snake proof brian, as just coming into snake season now. But managed his risks, with gadgets like leashes, fences, small slow timid animals, then slightly larger, more fast moving prey, till now he's fine around them. This took 6 weeks.
BUT, i never let the problem occur in first place. Whereas unfortunatly, you have.

So you have to counter condition now, as well as train in correct behaviour.
16 weeks in full prey drive mastiff. lets face it, you could take a chain saw to their back leg, and they wouldnt let go. Learn how to distract your dog, and change its drives. From prey to play, to pack, to prey, to pack etc

The secret is, anticipating your dogs behaviour, and getting in first, so drive initiation, and you divert the energy into a set task it enjoys. Because if you dont distract dog as roo hops past, it will chase, and then be in peak drive: oblivious to everything around it. Including you.

Practice moving your pup through the various drives during training sessions. Learn control in each of them. Starting with food, then play, then pack, then prey last. prey drive is the hardest drive to train in. thankfully they are mastiff's, so should want to sit for the tiniest morsel of treat, when horse is 50 paces away.

Obedience training must continue daily. And know your dogs. WELL. I know, that my friends horse, likes to play footy with a ball and dogs. All my dogs will of played with it over the years, except Bernie. This is the one game, where prey drive, and a victim and a ball are all in play at same time. That's way too much stimulus for Bernie, he gets stupid and herding a ball, rapidly becomes hunting a ball, and there a whole mass of meat in front of him called dobbin. So we dont let him play footy with horses, as it triggers something i dont want. Never tries to bite cows/sheep/roos, but a horse with a football is asking too much of bernie. Now your dog, know their limits, and sit safely inside the boundaries.

You are more than likely going to be able to ride out with dogs. as mine see the horse, and a rather odd large smelly pair of shoes i have on. The horse is an extension of me when i am sat on it. Whereas stood next to it, its an animal.

You can use treiball training on youtube to teach bite inhibition whilst pup is in prey drive. I tend to train this using yoga balls. Tightly inflated, really really inflated. So if a training oops bite does occur, then dog gets a massive aversive, beautifully timed for when it sunk its teeth. And wont go there again! Yoga balls pop in the loudest way!

Teaching bite inhibition whilst dog is in prey drive. For some dogs, i do with immediately with animals. For bernie, a herding sheep dog, i had to go back a few paces, and we have Dolly, a yoga ball. His latex practice sheep! lol
I put a band aid on ball, and get dog to touch the ball with its nose on the band aid, with a closed mouth. click/treat.
Most dogs want to ravage the big inflated blue yoga ball. I use a correction immediately. Settle dog into a sit, charge clicker, then clicker train 'touch'. Pull pup out of prey drive, back into play/pack drive focussing on you and keep going till you have a closed mouth, touch on band aid. 10/10 times, using 100 reward ratio. Should take very few goes, if not gets it first time.( My rottie took 2 goes, GSD took 2 days as far higher prey drive.)
then start random reward schedule using praise&food, or just food, or just praise, 100% reward ratio.
then reward every other correct behaviour, then every 3rd, then make rewards as random as you can, aim being, your dog never knows when it will be rewarded, and works even harder for ellusive rewards, than on a plate rewards, as that's their nature and your tool to use.
Dont forget "Jackpots", so eg of this, is walks past horse, 10 times, no reaction, paying attention, and on last go, deliver a rain of treats of his highest value all in one go! A Jackpot. Onto the floor, as makes pup focus on floor to eat all the lovely stuff, whilst standing right next to the horse, that is now less interesting by far!

As your pups are likely to be killed for this behaviour. One way or another, get as many reps of this training into one day as you can. Every day till trained. Meanwhile ensuring safety by managing all dogs securely.

Id also consider using a crate. Like in the middle of the stable at meal times.
Have horse lay down, and practice with injured looking animal. As led down = more chewable to a dog.
Use horse sound recordings and desensitise to this. Google has most animal sounds you can record.

I am not worried about this scenario, as it can be managed safely till training is completed.
and 99.9% of dogs love training in drive!
 

Bailey's Mom

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Thank you 2nd Chance. I knew you were up to the challenge! You have the experience, gained over time, that the rest of us lack.
LISTEN UP, Digbydisaster, this Forum Member has the experience to help you fix your problem dogs. A menagerie of animals sounds delightful, but it's a lot of work - intensive work. Dog's on working farms can't be raised with the same liberties as pets here in the city. These are dogs with jobs, and they have to train like atheletes.
2nd Chance will be a great resource for you in this area. There are probably some other farmers with Mastiffs out there that can lend a hand and a shoulder to lean on, I'm sure, eventually that they will chyme in.
When I first saw your post, I was concerned that there were only two possible avenues to follow. Both were very negative. Thankfully, there is 2nd Chances way, too.
Good luck. We are all rooting for you.
 

fizzed

Well-Known Member
I live surrounded by farmland and on occasions sheep and cattle are immediately surrounding my home. We have 15 dogs here ranging from yappie little dachshund crosses to my DDB and Rottie X. We take them out in controllable groups - we know which ones will lead the others to chase cattle and those who are not bothered. Those that are likely to be cattle chasers are kept on a lead and those we can trust are not. This may sound simplistic but it works for us. If you know the characteristics of your dogs you are better equipped to deal with issues.
 

chuckorlando

Well-Known Member
When you speak about what people lack use "I statments" Like " You have the experience, gained over time, that I lack." I dont like broad strokes being painted.
Thank you 2nd Chance. I knew you were up to the challenge! You have the experience, gained over time, that the rest of us lack.
LISTEN UP, Digbydisaster, this Forum Member has the experience to help you fix your problem dogs. A menagerie of animals sounds delightful, but it's a lot of work - intensive work. Dog's on working farms can't be raised with the same liberties as pets here in the city. These are dogs with jobs, and they have to train like atheletes.
2nd Chance will be a great resource for you in this area. There are probably some other farmers with Mastiffs out there that can lend a hand and a shoulder to lean on, I'm sure, eventually that they will chyme in.
When I first saw your post, I was concerned that there were only two possible avenues to follow. Both were very negative. Thankfully, there is 2nd Chances way, too.
Good luck. We are all rooting for you.