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I'm going to get a professional behaviorist.

elastigirl

Well-Known Member
I have a whistle

Apollo head-tilts when I blow it (if I'm lucky)

But thats about it

ha..sounds about like the reaction I usually get from calling Ivy if she doesn't know I have chicken .. or if she's busy .. or not hungry ... you get the picture.

Well, shipping was free - found the leash and ordered the whistle too - we will see - if it doesn't work I'll pass it along to a friend. :) You know, someone with a "normal" breed of dog lol.
 

ruthcatrin

Well-Known Member
Actually what works best with Apollo:

*Apollo snaps yet another leash and heads over to tell off the psychic GSDs for barking at him*

*me "Apollo! Wanna go for a ride!!!!" turns around and hurries towards the car*

*Apollo slides to a stop and books it after me, beating me to the car*

Works every time :D

Course, then I have to go get the keys and actually take him for a ride so that I don't ruin it lol

(ok, actually he slipped his collar that time he told off the psychotic GSDs, but same difference)
 

elastigirl

Well-Known Member
Haha. Ivy loves the car too but haven't tried that one yet. My other dog will come for "treat" - any treat - he isn't picky - but Ivy needs top-drawer treats and even then only if she's in the mood and not totally focused on something else (digging in the compost pile, eating chicken poop from under the coop, lying in the grass gazing out at the field ...).
 

ruthcatrin

Well-Known Member
He gets all excited if he thinks he's going to get to "go for a ride!", that being the key phrase. I joked one time on here:

How to get your TM to heel:

1: teach the dog that riding in the car is FUN!!!
2: teach the dog that "go for a ride?" means he gets to ride in the car
3: inadvertently teach the dog that if you're grabbing your keys as you say that it means the ride is going to happen RIGHT NOW

Result: say "Apollo, wanna go for a ride?" as you grab your keys with your left hand, discover dog in perfect heel formation with his eyes focused on your keys in your hand....
 

elastigirl

Well-Known Member
He gets all excited if he thinks he's going to get to "go for a ride!", that being the key phrase. I joked one time on here:

How to get your TM to heel:

1: teach the dog that riding in the car is FUN!!!
2: teach the dog that "go for a ride?" means he gets to ride in the car
3: inadvertently teach the dog that if you're grabbing your keys as you say that it means the ride is going to happen RIGHT NOW

Result: say "Apollo, wanna go for a ride?" as you grab your keys with your left hand, discover dog in perfect heel formation with his eyes focused on your keys in your hand....

LOL. See, they CAN be taught to heel ... I knew you people were all exaggerating ...
 

Hector

Well-Known Member
Here are some things to try:

1. Engagement exercises coupled with social deprivation

Try this for a day or two. Keep her in a crate and only let her out to potty and eat. Take her out and make her engage with you. If she doesn't want to, then back into her crate. I recommend doing the "I move, you move" exercise. It is best if you can get a front clip harness attached to her collar or just have it on the harness because I think the neck area is pretty desensitized to pressure, but having both attached gives you more leverage.

Practice stepping backwards so you don't trip when you do this. Practice fast and slow speeds. Start in a low distraction environment and you can either free up your hands and tie leash to your belt or just hold on to it. Attach the lead to her front clip harness and collar. It is also important not to have too much leash with a dog like her. When you move, the leash should be almost taut so she feels the pressure to follow.

Use a high value food item that you have had most luck. Take multiple steps backwards. You want to step back fast enough that she gets in a trot, not a slow I don't want to, A TROT. Stop and reward her quickly once she reaches you. You want her to eventually sit and offer eye contact, but I don't know if you will ever get that from her. You will start with very low criteria and increase it as she becomes fluent. Just keep on doing this backup exercise and don't forget about going sideways. Remember to keep the pace up. You don't want to give her a chance to break her focus on you. Right after treating, you move. If she is still reluctant to follow then back up even faster and take more steps. If she is doing good, try it outside. Also include this in your walking exercises. You would be walking her and all of a sudden you start to walk backwards and she should follow facing you.

The crate separation is to hopefully build her engagement drive. Crating is also good for attitude adjustments, but then again you have a TM lol.

2. Interrupters

In the video I posted - Sean is using a pet convincer or a pet corrector and it is just a can of air to interrupt the dog's behavior.

You can also try a shoulder check, but this is not without risk because your dog may redirect on you. Do this early early on before the aggression arises. You see her staring. You call her name and you get nothing. Shorten the leash and hold it taut and use your knee to push her right on the shoulder quickly but with enough force that she acknowledges you which means moving her whole front end. Normally a dog will be startle and this will break their focus on the distraction. Use the split second you have and keep the leash taut and just run the opposite direction while saying something like "hey hey hey yay yay yay" (lol) and remember to release tension once she turns to follow. This all happens really quick like in a matter of 3 seconds. I've done this with Hector's reactivity on skateboards and it works pretty good for us. Just remember about the risk of redirected aggression. This is a form of correction, but you build the dog back up with all the excitement afterwards.

AND I don't know if your behaviorist will tell you what you are doing wrong because she says in the email that she does not use aversives and to purely positive trainers, these interrupters are aversions and so might be crating....

I am just curious, but why do you think she won't accept food once outside?
 

Doggyhelpplease

Well-Known Member
I am just curious, but why do you think she won't accept food once outside?

I am not sure you mean outside or on walks or at shows Hector but that's pretty normal for TMs and they usually stop taking them sometime when they are a puppy. Apollo, Mooshi, my dog, my breeders dog etc, no one really takes them and it can be when my dog is totally calm just walking along beside me, she still doesn't want them (I have had people try all sorts of treats and foods etc). Sometimes she may take it if I say okay but then spit it out and they are always like omg you don't like my stuff, it's funny. If I say sit with a treat in hand she will sit, but she won't want the treat, she is just waiting for the okay release. I hear there is like 1 line or so that shows in USA that does take treats in shows and you can see them if Google but it's not Athena's problem per say but a normal breed trait I would argue anyways. Harder to train but it still works over time.
 

ruthcatrin

Well-Known Member
Yup, what Doggyhelpplease said.

As a PUPPY, Apollo would not infrequently accept HIGH VALUE treats outside of my property.

By the time he was 1yr of age........IF he was in the right mood, and IF it was the right treat, and IF he was in a location he knew well and was comfortable in.....he MIGHT have taken the treat, but even then there was a better than likely chance he'd just drop it to the floor infront of him.

These days, at 3.5yrs of age, forget it. I'm not even sure he'd eat a meal outside of my property or my inlaws property. Forget about treats off of those properties. At shows I get handlers trying to offer him all sorts of things (seriously, cause obviously I just haven't found the right bait.....), had the handler infront of us in a group ring waiving a piece of steak under Apollo's nose IN THE RING at one point. This last show he found a piece of hotdog someone ahead of us had dropped. He thought it smelled interesting, but wasn't interested in eating it.

He'll occasionally still "be polite" and take the treat and then drop it on the ground, but even that incidence has dropped significantly.

There are some individual dogs who are exceptions to the rule, Sierras has a line who apparently loves their food (there was a whole batch of them in the ring at one of the major shows and I was shaking my head at how many of the TMs in the ring were going for the bait). But its very much a normal breed trait to not be interested in treats of any kind off the home property.


I'm not sure the crating technique would work. I'm pretty sure you'd just end up with a sulking TM. But I'd not be adverse to trying it were it my dog. I HAVE used my body as an interrupter on occasion, and it CAN work well, depending on the situation.
 
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broccolini

Well-Known Member
Thanks, Hector.

Let me see if I can be better at describing my goals with using a behaviorist and make sure I'm explaining how weird these dogs are.

Yes, she uses positive training methods. This has been proven to be the best method for training with all kinds of animals. I know that I can get results with aversive methods. Probably. At least in most dogs anyway. :)

That doesn't mean I'm against using corrections or aversive techniques once the dog knows what to do. There is a difference. With positive methods, you see a dog that offers up new behaviors instead of avoiding behaviors. I like that and I'm hoping the behaviorist knows some cool tricks or has some insight about things that might be self-rewarding that I just can't think of.

If aversive methods are the only thing that will work, that's what we'll do, I'm not a fanatic about it. I don't want that to be where we start. That seems unfair and lazy of me.

If there is a way to get her to act better that rewards her for the right behavior, I want to know about it. We can't use any of the normal bribes. When I say she won't accept food outside, it's because she *won't* accept food outside. Not because I just think that or I don't want to try and find the *right* food. Even our puppy has begun to refuse food outside of the house. It's just what they do.

I told the first trainer that Athena was not food motivated. He worked with her in the house and she did whatever he wanted for some liver treats. So I'm sure that guy thought I was just an idiot. But outside is a whole different ballgame.

She also won't play with toys if she is *on duty*. Athena actually has a lot of toy drive for a Tibetan. She'll fetch in the backyard like she's a lab. She will go from "yay, I'm having fun" to "what was that?" in half a second if she hears something. Then she is completely uninterested in the ball she was just having the best time ever with.

And when I say she doesn't care about what I want or think, I mean it. Your dog probably cares if you're mad. If you raise your voice or project disappointment in some way, your dog will probably notice and change his behavior. Your dog probably seems happy and wags his tail a bit when you come home. He will do things because he knows that's what you want and he wants to please you. That's how dogs are supposed to be. That's why people like dogs. Because they love us unconditionally, right?

The TM is not that dog. Athena barely acknowledges us when we walk in the door. If I scold her she looks at me like there is something wrong with me. She doesn't do anything just because she thinks it might make me happy.

That doesn't mean she doesn't like me. Because she does. But it's much more of a mutual respect thing. And don't think that it means she thinks she's in charge or that I need to make her understand that I'm dominate or something. That is not how it is. She respects me. But she's still going to make her own decisions.

So when we walk, she will look to me for some things. Somebody left a grill on the sidewalk and she was greatly concerned about it. I was easily able to walk her up to it and she was fine once she checked it out. Stuff like that. But once she decides that something is a threat or requires her full attention for whatever reason. That's it. There is no getting her focus back. She is quite confident in her decision making skills and if she's concerned and I'm not, well, clearly I'm the idiot in this equation.

Again, that is who these dogs are. That is not me making excuses.

Social isolation is not something that I think will work with her. These are just not dogs that can be tricked or trained to engage with us. She's just not that into me.

I do like the shoulder check idea. I'll try that. I think if my timing is good, that might help.

Also, something else about the way they react. A lot of you have had success with making your dogs sit when other dogs approach. Or standing in front of them. Athena acts worse the more you try and restrain her or keep her from seeing whatever she is concerned about. Last night, there was a Jack Russell following us. Instead of trying to snap her attention away from it like I've been doing, I let her watch it. They turned onto another street and she just sat quietly until it was out of her view. Of course, if they had gotten closer she wouldn't have stayed sitting but she was much more willing to just ignore it after she got a chance to watch it.

She just really, really needs to verify for herself that everything is fine.

And like I said, maybe I'm the problem and I just don't know it. The behaviorist should be able to point that out. Hopefully her positive training methods apply to humans too.
 

ruthcatrin

Well-Known Member
In the overall scheme of things I don't know that it REALLY matters if the behaviorist is totally positive training only or not. If she can give Broc some serious input as to where she's missing Athena's cues, or where Broc is mis-timing something, or even projecting cues she doesn't know she is, alternatives can be come up with once we have that info. Though it'd be cool if she's got some alternative ideas that work.
 

broccolini

Well-Known Member
In the overall scheme of things I don't know that it REALLY matters if the behaviorist is totally positive training only or not. If she can give Broc some serious input as to where she's missing Athena's cues, or where Broc is mis-timing something, or even projecting cues she doesn't know she is, alternatives can be come up with once we have that info. Though it'd be cool if she's got some alternative ideas that work.


It's like we share a brain.

Or one of us is a sockpuppet...
 

Hector

Well-Known Member
I agree with positive training methods as I myself like to go that route. I don't like to give corrections and I don't just freely correct my dog so he can learn something quicker. If you've seen a lot of my videos, they are mostly done without a leash so I really have no control of the outcome. I am very curious of the positive training methods on a dog that is not easily motivated because of this strong independent mindset. I am not judging you either.
 

broccolini

Well-Known Member
Yes, I like your videos. :)

Oh, another thing I just thought of.

I have a prong collar for her and I love it. She walks great on it.

When we've tried it in places with other dogs it didn't go so well. When she moved toward another dog and the collar tightened, her aggression level shot way up. I've read that one of the dangers of using prongs or shock collars is that they might blame the other dog or cat or whatever they are trying to get for the pain. And that can make things worse.

I've been wondering if I didn't spend enough time using the collar in areas where there were no other dogs. So she could learn that the collar tightened in response to her actions.

If the behaviorist doesn't work out, maybe I'll go back to basics with that.