CC Puppy loses temper

[VinniesMom]

Vinnie is learning.....there is no way he will learn in a week. But he is making progress. A stern “No” works often, and if not, a few minutes in his kennel in “time out” calms him immediately. He took to his kennel very well and will go in on his own when tired.

Thank you all for your input....it sounds like there are many different methods, butI can take away something from everyone’s post.

 

[Steven C]

Vinnie is learning.....there is no way he will learn in a week. But he is making progress. A stern “No” works often, and if not, a few minutes in his kennel in “time out” calms him immediately. He took to his kennel very well and will go in on his own when tired.

Thank you all for your input....it sounds like there are many different methods, butI can take away something from everyone’s post. View attachment 60017

Fantastic, glad it works for you. Great looking Puppy Vinnie! Later on when you search for a prong collar, go with a Sprenger, it's the best and needed for this breed.

 

[Boxergirl]

If you do use a prong, then Herm-Sprenger is definitely the way to go. As I've stated before, I'm a crossover trainer and have used compulsion tools in the past so I'm not just blindly against a prong collar. May I suggest that you don't just immediately decide that you need one because you own a CC? Maybe you will, but maybe you won't. You seem open to ideas, so I'm going to give you a link to LIMA. It's my preferred method of training and stands for Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive. To me it makes the most sense. You might find the information useful. I do wish you the best of luck with your dog. I'd love to see more pictures.

https://m.iaabc.org/about/position-statements/lima/

 

[Jarena]

My cc is 10 months. I know she’s young so things can change, but I’ve never used a prong collar on her. Not because I’m against them, just haven’t needed one.

 

[glen]

Iv never had to yse a prong collar, just a slip kead

 

[Steven C]

My cc is 10 months. I know she’s young so things can change, but I’ve never used a prong collar on her. Not because I’m against them, just haven’t needed one.

That's fantastic, you definitely are one of the lucky ones. She must be very relaxed for a CC. The reason its important to maintain complete control over the CC and not risk any pulling is to potentially save the dogs life. If one day by accident the CC bit another dog or person while on leash, the first thing the state will do is send an expert to see how well you control the dog on a leash, how well the dog heels and not pulls like crazy. In a state like FL they determine the life or death scenario of the dog. So for me or my wife because she actually walks her also, better safe than sorry even though my girl at this point heels very well, if a possum or squirrel or something comes out of nowhere I would rather maintain full control with a prong. She is powerful.

 

[Justin B.]

Like Steven C has suggested a prong collar doesnt always have to be used for correction or training for newer handlers.

Its not a bad idea for a huge dog breed that has shown signs of aggression before. Especially if you dont have 100% complete off lead control of your dog in a social or public setting ( which 99% of people dont).

I let an ex girlfriend walk one of my big males once. She found it impossible to control him with anything other than a prong collar. Even an expensive harness. I have tested many harnesses too. They are flawed or certain dogs. Again they have their place and I own several. Even made my own.

What tools...what methods....and your philosophy should come down to these individual factors

-your honest experience level as a handler/owner/trainer of a large guard dogs. Most people are incredibly disingenuous and not honest with themselves about this. People think that past dog ownership makes them an instant expert (again not talking about anybody in the thread.)

- How many REALISTIC DAILY HOURS do you have to put into your dog. Something else most people are not honest about. Certain methods and techniques require a lot more patients and time. Do you realistically have that....If not dont use that as an excuse to not switch to a different method to where you have complete control over your dog.

-What type of Corso do you actually have...is it only pet quality....do you have papers and pedigree to where you can check the dogs temperament throughout his lines...does it come from real working, aggressive, or guardian dogs.

-Your puppies individual temperament, drives, and willingness to please or obey its owner.

Its kind of irresponsible to make firm rules for somebody else's dog without knowing these things first.

I agree you may not ever need a prong collar or a non postive method of training for some Corsos.

However, I always recommend one for my lines and the pups I sell. I also stress having complete control over your dog at all times as a goal.

Even a well trained dog can snap, be injured, or have a bad day. Best to have the most control over a situation as you can.

 

[Boxergirl]

Like Steven C has suggested a prong collar doesnt always have to be used for correction or training for newer handlers.

Its not a bad idea for a huge dog breed that has shown signs of aggression before. Especially if you dont have 100% complete off lead control of your dog in a social or public setting ( which 99% of people dont).

I let an ex girlfriend walk one of my big males once. She found it impossible to control him with anything other than a prong collar. Even an expensive harness. I have tested many harnesses too. They are flawed or certain dogs. Again they have their place and I own several. Even made my own.

What tools...what methods....and your philosophy should come down to these individual factors

-your honest experience level as a handler/owner/trainer of a large guard dogs. Most people are incredibly disingenuous and not honest with themselves about this. People think that past dog ownership makes them an instant expert (again not talking about anybody in the thread.)

- How many REALISTIC DAILY HOURS do you have to put into your dog. Something else most people are not honest about. Certain methods and techniques require a lot more patients and time. Do you realistically have that....If not dont use that as an excuse to not switch to a different method to where you have complete control over your dog.

-What type of Corso do you actually have...is it only pet quality....do you have papers and pedigree to where you can check the dogs temperament throughout his lines...does it come from real working, aggressive, or guardian dogs.

-Your puppies individual temperament, drives, and willingness to please or obey its owner.

Its kind of irresponsible to make firm rules for somebody else's dog without knowing these things first.

I agree you may not ever need a prong collar or a non postive method of training for some Corsos.

However, I always recommend one for my lines and the pups I sell. I also stress having complete control over your dog at all times as a goal.

Even a well trained dog can snap, be injured, or have a bad day. Best to have the most control over a situation as you can.

Since I seem to be the only one really suggesting positive methods, I think you may be directing this toward me - "Its kind of irresponsible to make firm rules for somebody else's dog without knowing these things first." If not then I'll apologize ahead of time. If that is the case then I would invite you to go back and read my posts and see that I have made suggestions for being open to other types of training besides compulsion training, but have never suggested that my way is the only way. At least not intentionally. I agree with your list of individual factors because, as I stated before, training technique should be tailored to the individual rather than just the breed. Hence the LIMA approach to training.

I also wanted to remind everyone that this is a ten week (if I remember correctly) puppy. It would be extremely rare for a pup of that age, of any breed, to show true aggression. If we were talking about an adolescent or adult dog then I would perhaps suggest different methods. This is also a pup that appears to accept mild correction well and those corrections seem to be effective. It seems like the OP is handling things just fine and hopefully this thread has given them helpful information about the different training options available.

 

[Justin B.]

Since I seem to be the only one really suggesting positive methods, I think you may be directing this toward me - "Its kind of irresponsible to make firm rules for somebody else's dog without knowing these things first." If not then I'll apologize ahead of time. If that is the case then I would invite you to go back and read my posts and see that I have made suggestions for being open to other types of training besides compulsion training, but have never suggested that my way is the only way. At least not intentionally. I agree with your list of individual factors because, as I stated before, training technique should be tailored to the individual rather than just the breed. Hence the LIMA approach to training.

I also wanted to remind everyone that this is a ten week (if I remember correctly) puppy. It would be extremely rare for a pup of that age, of any breed, to show true aggression. If we were talking about an adolescent or adult dog then I would perhaps suggest different methods. This is also a pup that appears to accept mild correction well and those corrections seem to be effective. It seems like the OP is handling things just fine and hopefully this thread has given them helpful information about the different training options available.

It was not directed at you. I even went as far as to put "(again not talking about anybody in the thread.) " in both my post.......Did you miss that?

I actually like the way you phrased it as a suggestion.

I have been reading through other threads in the different breeds sections here. I have honestly seen so much horrible, bad, and flat out dangerous generic advice I wanted to kind of get my 2 cents in before any misinformation got in here for the Cane Corso owners.
I just wanted to give the specifics of why there is no right or wrong answer to which is the best method, way, or tools. Thought that may be helpful. Instead of just endorsing my way.
I know exactly how I have stopped that behavior in MANY Corso pups within days. Without hitting. Without ANY collar. And without "harsh negative reinforcement. Its a technique that is easily found online and is so natural it resembles what a mother dog would do in a similar situation.
However, like BlackShadow has mentioned. You risk a firestorm online if you suggest anything other than whispering sweet nothings into the dogs ear (joke friendly sarcasm).

I have seen aggression that early in many Corso pups. The game changes when it is increased aggression towards the owner and correction. I look at that from a slightly differnt angle.

As mastiffs Corso tend to mature physically a little slower than other breeds. Bones, joint, and overall filling out.

However, their temperament and drive tends to mature much faster than many breeds I have worked with. Which sometimes does result in early signs of aggression.

This is why they make such great guard dogs even at a young age.

 

[VinniesMom]

It was not directed at you. I even went as far as to put "(again not talking about anybody in the thread.) " in both my post.......Did you miss that?

I actually like the way you phrased it as a suggestion.

I have been reading through other threads in the different breeds sections here. I have honestly seen so much horrible, bad, and flat out dangerous generic advice I wanted to kind of get my 2 cents in before any misinformation got in here for the Cane Corso owners.
I just wanted to give the specifics of why there is no right or wrong answer to which is the best method, way, or tools. Thought that may be helpful. Instead of just endorsing my way.
I know exactly how I have stopped that behavior in MANY Corso pups within days. Without hitting. Without ANY collar. And without "harsh negative reinforcement. Its a technique that is easily found online and is so natural it resembles what a mother dog would do in a similar situation.
However, like BlackShadow has mentioned. You risk a firestorm online if you suggest anything other than whispering sweet nothings into the dogs ear (joke friendly sarcasm).

I have seen aggression that early in many Corso pups. The game changes when it is increased aggression towards the owner and correction. I look at that from a slightly differnt angle.

As mastiffs Corso tend to mature physically a little slower than other breeds. Bones, joint, and overall filling out.

However, their temperament and drive tends to mature much faster than many breeds I have worked with. Which sometimes does result in early signs of aggression.

This is why they make such great guard dogs even at a young age.

How did you stop it?

 

[Justin B.]

How did you stop it?

I will try and shoot you a private message now.

 

[Justin B.]

How did you stop it?

Ok sent you a conversation. Please read in full before you research or try anything.

Again, I do agree with Boxergirl on if you are seeing REAL MEASURABLE PROGRESS to where the end is in site you may want to stick on your current path.

Never hurts to have a backup plan. Or something that may potentially work better for this particular dog, handler, and situation.

 

[Steven C]

Like Steven C has suggested a prong collar doesnt always have to be used for correction or training for newer handlers.

Its not a bad idea for a huge dog breed that has shown signs of aggression before. Especially if you dont have 100% complete off lead control of your dog in a social or public setting ( which 99% of people dont).

I let an ex girlfriend walk one of my big males once. She found it impossible to control him with anything other than a prong collar. Even an expensive harness. I have tested many harnesses too. They are flawed or certain dogs. Again they have their place and I own several. Even made my own.

What tools...what methods....and your philosophy should come down to these individual factors

-your honest experience level as a handler/owner/trainer of a large guard dogs. Most people are incredibly disingenuous and not honest with themselves about this. People think that past dog ownership makes them an instant expert (again not talking about anybody in the thread.)

- How many REALISTIC DAILY HOURS do you have to put into your dog. Something else most people are not honest about. Certain methods and techniques require a lot more patients and time. Do you realistically have that....If not dont use that as an excuse to not switch to a different method to where you have complete control over your dog.

-What type of Corso do you actually have...is it only pet quality....do you have papers and pedigree to where you can check the dogs temperament throughout his lines...does it come from real working, aggressive, or guardian dogs.

-Your puppies individual temperament, drives, and willingness to please or obey its owner.

Its kind of irresponsible to make firm rules for somebody else's dog without knowing these things first.

I agree you may not ever need a prong collar or a non postive method of training for some Corsos.

However, I always recommend one for my lines and the pups I sell. I also stress having complete control over your dog at all times as a goal.

Even a well trained dog can snap, be injured, or have a bad day. Best to have the most control over a situation as you can.

I didn't know you bred CC dogs. Do you have a website I would like to see some of the dogs you had or have? As far as not knowing what kind of dog the OP dog is, it certainly seems from her description the dog will have a ton of drive. Usually dogs that lose their temper as puppies make the best dogs for bite work. But who knows.

As far as off leash goes, it was one of the very big sacrafices I made going from a sporting breed to a working breed. Even if I have full control, I will not risk it today as there are far too many instances ranging from sensitive people, to something as little as a neighbor calling the cops for anything like a lost child or whatever and they end up shooting your dog inside the fenced yard. Look it up, lots of lawsuits revolving around the issue today including a puppy weimerana case that was just recently thrown out by a judge. https://www.deseretnews.com/article...killed-by-police-files-2-million-lawsuit.html



Happens every 45 minutes today since 2008 and its crazy. So I always recommend to never leave the dog in the yard without supervision either. The dogs are no longer safe.

As my CC gets more accustomed to walking always in a heel, I use a leash that has a ring on the handle end to clip onto my belt or something this way its like a partial off leash. She is a great heeler, I give her that. She has never walked bad or pulled unless something brought out the drive.

I do have AKC papers and pedigree was just requested, so how can you tell when you have the names of the dogs in the pedigree from Europe? You just look up the names or what?

 

[Justin B.]

I didn't know you bred CC dogs. Do you have a website I would like to see some of the dogs you had or have? As far as not knowing what kind of dog the OP dog is, it certainly seems from her description the dog will have a ton of drive. Usually dogs that lose their temper as puppies make the best dogs for bite work. But who knows.

As far as off leash goes, it was one of the very big sacrafices I made going from a sporting breed to a working breed. Even if I have full control, I will not risk it today as there are far too many instances ranging from sensitive people, to something as little as a neighbor calling the cops for anything like a lost child or whatever and they end up shooting your dog inside the fenced yard. Look it up, lots of lawsuits revolving around the issue today including a puppy weimerana case that was just recently thrown out by a judge. https://www.deseretnews.com/article...killed-by-police-files-2-million-lawsuit.html



Happens every 45 minutes today since 2008 and its crazy. So I always recommend to never leave the dog in the yard without supervision either. The dogs are no longer safe.

As my CC gets more accustomed to walking always in a heel, I use a leash that has a ring on the handle end to clip onto my belt or something this way its like a partial off leash. She is a great heeler, I give her that. She has never walked bad or pulled unless something brought out the drive.

I do have AKC papers and pedigree was just requested, so how can you tell when you have the names of the dogs in the pedigree from Europe? You just look up the names or what?

Yes I use to have a website for years around 10 years ago. It did really well. But that came at a high cost. I tried to only sell to the affluent. Pro athletes and wealthy people. I thought that would ensure my dogs would go to the best homes. However, I realized that no matter what I did there was always a chance to be fooled. I had an experience with a puppy and a pro MLB player that turned out really bad for the dog. Broke my heart.
Plus there was so much drama in the Corso world back then online. I routinely had people steal photos. Lie about coming to see the dogs from out of state or country. Or it was really popular for jealous breeders and new Cane Corso owners to call you up and try to quiz you or trick you to make you think they wanted a puppy. However, they were just trying to find out any info they could on you to write a smear campaign and crazy blog and forum post. Luckily it never escalated to that with me, but I did have to seriously check a lot of owners and breeders who wasted my time. Pure losers who thought they were some how being the Cane Corso police by randomly calling breeders and trying to trip them up.
I decided i just didnt want to have multiple litters a year. Or even a litter every year. I didn't want tobe part of the Cane Corso community online. The breed become just too popular. I just wanted to enjoy my dogs and not be a part of any dog or social related problems. So now I breed on a much smaller scale. I should have some puppies on the ground soon. I would like to work towards some working titles with them.

You can look up the names or figure out the sir names and kennel names and look those up too. The Champions and Grand Champions names in the pedigree should tell which registry they are a champion under. That can tell you the origin of the dog too. There is a good online database for Corsos as well.

Ill send pics in a conversation to you. So I dont spam the thread. I may make a pic thread later on.

 

[Annette Coleman]

Really though, what's the difference? Dog training and child rearing is pretty much the same thing, lol. Rules, boundaries, expectations, patience, rewarding what works ... the list goes on and on. A time out for a child is to remove them from a situation and give them time to calm themselves down. It shouldn't be used as a punishment. One of the biggest things that is overlooked in early training for pups is teaching them how to calm themselves down and settle. Some dogs need this more than others, but it's something that will help prevent a lot of problem issues that may develop from over-arousal and lack of impulse control. Things like separation anxiety and being destructive. Impulse control and teaching an "off button" is imperative for dogs that are assertive and easily aroused. Mat work is great for that.

I definitely agree that a drop from a distance is very important, but I don't honestly think it's more important than impulse control training. Which is what place is. I think that if you have good impulse control then it makes your drop from a distance easier to train. I'd also put a rock solid recall above a distance drop, at least at a young age. Most owners aren't going to achieve a down at a distance or even think to want one, but they can get a solid recall. And really, the dog shouldn't be off leash if it isn't under complete voice control and has a solid recall. It's important to remember that most of the posters coming here for advice (or the many that are lurking) aren't experienced trainers, nor do they want working or performance dogs. They want well behaved pets and many of them will have very little training experience.

I strongly encourage the OP to start work now on focus and impulse control. And most definitely a solid recall. There are two really good books by Laura VanArendonk Baugh, who is a crossover trainer that works with reactive dogs, called Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out and Social, Civil, and Saavy. The latter is mainly for puppies, but it's good advice for all dogs. I would also recommend that the OP take a look at Control Unleashed for Puppies and Beyond the Back Yard. The last two may seem to be for performance dogs, but they both have really good information for all dog owners. Especially owners with pups that tend to be assertive or easily aroused. I am also going to suggest the Fenzi Academy for online classes. You can take a six week class for as little as $65 and there are some really good ones for young dogs like focus, engagement, and learning through play.

GREAT ADIVICE!!!!!! A leash and the advice of an experienced trainer---K9 trainer not pet store trainer--- saved my alpha male CC from my inexperience. When he came back from two weeks with the trainer after a dominance nip at me, I left a short leash on him until we were both confident that I was in control --- the leash came back for a short period around 18 months of age when he started testing boundaries again. The leash is also working well to calm my daughter's 9 month old CC mix. These dogs are smart enough to know that the leash counteracts their physical superiority in speed, agility and strength. Plus, as my trainer said firm tugs are annoying and make great corrections for unwanted behavior.

 

[Annette Coleman]

Since I seem to be the only one really suggesting positive methods, I think you may be directing this toward me - "Its kind of irresponsible to make firm rules for somebody else's dog without knowing these things first." If not then I'll apologize ahead of time. If that is the case then I would invite you to go back and read my posts and see that I have made suggestions for being open to other types of training besides compulsion training, but have never suggested that my way is the only way. At least not intentionally. I agree with your list of individual factors because, as I stated before, training technique should be tailored to the individual rather than just the breed. Hence the LIMA approach to training.

I also wanted to remind everyone that this is a ten week (if I remember correctly) puppy. It would be extremely rare for a pup of that age, of any breed, to show true aggression. If we were talking about an adolescent or adult dog then I would perhaps suggest different methods. This is also a pup that appears to accept mild correction well and those corrections seem to be effective. It seems like the OP is handling things just fine and hopefully this thread has given them helpful information about the different training options available.

You make a fantastic point about both the age and health of this particular pup. I suspect that the health issues are responsible for the temperament issues. That said, my true alpha would occasionally display outbursts fromega 8 weeks old when we got him. We tried positive reinforcement only with nearly disastrous results. He knew what he was supposed to do but looked at us with a "you and what army are going to make do it" attitude. If I had not found a breeder experienced with guard dogs who taught me a tremendous amount about my dog and the difference between Fido and guardian breeds, I would have put down this magnificent guardian because he was uncontrollable. Training methods should match the needs of the dog and the situation. Like kids, dogs need BOTH "carrots and sticks".

 

[DennasMom]

Great conversation... not sure what I can add (but I'll write a novel anyway, lol)... and I have an EM, not a CC. She is still a guardian breed, but maybe not quite as hard-wired (depending on your CC's breeding line). So, just some comments / thoughts for your consideration -

1. The subject is a 10 week old puppy having temper tantrums, just like a human toddler... it might sound like an attack, but it's just an outburst due to frustration, over-stimulation or out-of-calories... at that point, the time-out would be the direction I would go - removing the stimulation, providing a new "job" for the puppy that you can reward (remove the frustration), and/or putting him where he can take a nap. Give him a bully stick to chew and fall asleep with so he can regroup and be ready to be a nice, polite puppy when he re-emerges from his "place". If he won't settle, take him outside (or down the hall) for a quick walk to regroup and bump into a better state of mind, maybe run some obedience commands (anything you can then reward with praise and treats, to push him back into "pack/family" mode)... then back to his "place" for a nap.

2. I am a BIG FAN of the game of tug. Our game has rules! I use tug to teach my dog many things, including "leave it", "drop", "take it", "pull", and Never EVER touch teeth to skin (game is OVER if teeth touch skin, they learn that Quick). The game of tug is FUN!!! It's Interactive, it builds the dog's prey drive (my pups have always been pretty low on that end), it's a great way to burn excess energy and give the dog an "out" for frustrations and zoomies (especially in a confined space where zoomies would be dangerous), it rewards them for biting the RIGHT thing (the tug toy), and for not biting the WRONG thing (your pant leg). The most important thing when playing tug, is to know who CONTROLS the game. Note - The idea is for that to be the human. The human gets to say when the game starts and when it's over. Ask for the pup to drop the toy, and reward them by giving it back and playing more tug. It is a GREAT game with real world lessons built in! YouTube has some great videos on teaching proper games of tug. If you do find that it makes your puppy more aggressive, too intense or too focused on destroying the tug toy... don't play it. I've never had a puppy that acted that way... but I'm not going to say they don't exist, either!

3. I've never had to use a prong collar on a dog I've had from puppydom. I have used prongs on a rescue dog we adopted... he was "hard of hearing" and ignored any direction on a flat collar or even a slip. I consider the prong safer than a choker (cotton slip or chain link). And it is AMAZING how well dogs "hear" you when they are wearing a prong - very little pressure is needed. But... I would not consider using a prong on a dog under 6 months old... positive methods are soooooo much more effective at that age.

4. Impulse Control! This is a big one that will provide major returns in your life with your dog. Teach "wait" - that was the first command we taught Denna, and it's still our most important and most used. Make your puppy "wait" for dinner, "wait" at doors before going through (in front or behind you, I don't care, as long as they didn't push through without waiting for you to say "ok to go" first!), wait before hopping in or out of the car, wait for anything and everything you can think of. "Wait" means - I know what you want, and I'll give it to you... in a minute. "NO" means - I know what you want and you will NOT be getting it, so quit asking. There is a difference - and the dog will KNOW if you say "wait" and meant "no"... do that too often and "wait" will lose it's value.

5. Mastiffs, EM, CC, DDB, etc, are SMART. They are learning every minute they are awake - what you like, what you don't, what gets your attention, and what you ignore... they will then use that knowledge to get what THEY want... or they will try. They're very good manipulators! Just remember to out-stubborn your pup and you'll be fine! HA!

6. I love all-positive methods for training NEW things... but, I agree with marke, Annette and others (including some professional trainers) - that there are limits. There are situations where negative consequences are required to stop unwanted behaviors. That doesn't mean those negative consequences have to be mean or violent... just perceived by the puppy as something powerful enough to be an incentive for them to NOT want a repeat of that consequence. I also try to make sure the punishment fits the crime. I try to be fair. If the punishment is over the top, the puppy might think he needs to up his "crime" to match the punishment, and that would be a bad thing, all around. Did I mention mastiffs are smart??

7. I love all of BoxerGirl's recommendations. I've followed her posts here on the forum, and have complete confidence in her knowledge and experience in everything dog. She has never steered me wrong.

 

[VinniesMom]

Thank you again to everyone for the posts! Here is an update on Vinnie.... he is making good progress. I taught him to sit and when he starts tugging at our pant leg, I say "No" and command him to sit. This works 75% of the time, and then I pet him and tell him good dog. When it doesn't work, I find a toy and give it to him instead. I agree these were temper tantrums brought on by overstimulation....he pouts like a reprimanded child when he is scolded. (It is awfully cute!).

At first his outbursts were uncontrollable, and it escalated to a point where we had to use a suggestion from Justin B. to get him to cool down. The next phase he would do it but when told no, the snapping would only last a few seconds and he didn't try to bite. Then we got him to sit and calm on his own while we praised him for being a good dog. As of today, it hasn't occurred for 48 hours....fingers crossed! He is a delightful puppy, but ornery! I wouldn't have it any other way!

His health is improving, but we are battling to get these worms under control. He has gained 8lbs and looks healthier. I think this was a huge part of it as well. At 8 weeks he weighed 9 lbs, and at 11 weeks almost 17. He gets hernia surgery next Friday.

 

[Justin B.]

Thank you again to everyone for the posts! Here is an update on Vinnie.... he is making good progress. I taught him to sit and when he starts tugging at our pant leg, I say "No" and command him to sit. This works 75% of the time, and then I pet him and tell him good dog. When it doesn't work, I find a toy and give it to him instead. I agree these were temper tantrums brought on by overstimulation....he pouts like a reprimanded child when he is scolded. (It is awfully cute!).

At first his outbursts were uncontrollable, and it escalated to a point where we had to use a suggestion from Justin B. to get him to cool down. The next phase he would do it but when told no, the snapping would only last a few seconds and he didn't try to bite. Then we got him to sit and calm on his own while we praised him for being a good dog. As of today, it hasn't occurred for 48 hours....fingers crossed! He is a delightful puppy, but ornery! I wouldn't have it any other way!

His health is improving, but we are battling to get these worms under control. He has gained 8lbs and looks healthier. I think this was a huge part of it as well. At 8 weeks he weighed 9 lbs, and at 11 weeks almost 17. He gets hernia surgery next Friday.

Props for being honest and open about the situation!

Looks like you were able to come up with what works best for you and your situation.

Glad he is doing better. Sounds like you are clearly figuring out what works best for you and him together.

Wishing him a speedy recovery. Probably will have more energy and be even more ornry when he is 100% healthy. But you are ready for it now.

Still keep us updated!

 

[Steven C]

2. I am a BIG FAN of the game of tug. Our game has rules! I use tug to teach my dog many things, including "leave it", "drop", "take it", "pull", and Never EVER touch teeth to skin (game is OVER if teeth touch skin, they learn that Quick). The game of tug is FUN!!! It's Interactive, it builds the dog's prey drive (my pups have always been pretty low on that end), it's a great way to burn excess energy and give the dog an "out" for frustrations and zoomies (especially in a confined space where zoomies would be dangerous), it rewards them for biting the RIGHT thing (the tug toy), and for not biting the WRONG thing (your pant leg). The most important thing when playing tug, is to know who CONTROLS the game. Note - The idea is for that to be the human. The human gets to say when the game starts and when it's over. Ask for the pup to drop the toy, and reward them by giving it back and playing more tug. It is a GREAT game with real world lessons built in! YouTube has some great videos on teaching proper games of tug. If you do find that it makes your puppy more aggressive, too intense or too focused on destroying the tug toy... don't play it. I've never had a puppy that acted that way... but I'm not going to say they don't exist, either!

I usually agree with posts from you but this I feel I need to jump in as having first hand current experience with this.

Please don't use the tug game lightly. These dogs with drive are no joke and not an EM. Just to give you an idea my female CC has a tug toy, a special K-9 tug toy that we use for training and is used in IPO training. My wife can't even grab the toy around her because she goes ballistic when she even see's it. Mind you my CC is a heavy drive dog but its very possible the OP has a drivy dog also. If you used a tug toy with my girl she would take you down trying to get to it or get it from you and she is 60% trained from total IPO. They develop a certain attachment to the toy that is used in positive reinforcement. Similar to that of a sleeve or a canvas tug. I know people will say well she is out of control. This is false, this tug can be used during training which is her job and works very well. The tug works better than food in a positive training scenario that I use.

These are not your play tug for fun type of dogs (which iv'e done for 15 years before the CC). I'm sure there are other CC owners that will agree with this.

I believe this is serious enough for its own thread as I know there will be people that say oh no, I use with my mixed or my docile CC. But those with drivy CC know how serious a game of tug is. Here is one of the many articles on tug games with dogs. Please read #3 in the article. If this Op started to play tug with her 16 week old CC which is drivy, she would have more problems than she has now. These aggressive problems attacking her and the vet only show that this dog is a possible good candidate for bite work, which I can tell you right now with kids in her house I would go against this 100%. Less than 5% of CC owners have the ability to safely train in bite work imo and tug is the gateway to bite work in this breed.

Not only that, a CC is born a 40 caliber most people dont have a reason to make it a loaded 40 caliber.

http://thehyperpup.com/will-playing-tug-war-make-dog-aggressive/