Oak Hill Farm
Well-Known Member
We have had a few "discussions" on here about "breeders" and finding a good one. I thought I would start a topic on what a good breeder means to me, and others can add to or disagree with.
As I have stated in the past I won't buy a dog from someone that I don't "know". Meaning someone that I haven't spoken to in length about their thoughts on training, feeding, lines, heck even their family, pastimes and house and the total dog environment. Not that I have to agree with everything (although that helps), I just like to have the overall picture of where my dog is coming from, and the confidence in knowing that the breeder knows what they are talking about; After all they should know more about the breed than me.
Breeders:
Should be able to tell me the standard almost verbatim. Yes, I feel you should know it that well. You should be able to recite EXACTLY what a "insert breed here" should be. This includes all things that are disqualifications as well. You should know the various registries and their standards as well, even if you are not using them.
You should know the top kennels in the breed, and who's producing what. You should be able to list the top 5-ish dogs in the breed in your opinion and know several others minimally. You should know who's competing in what and winning in the ring or field.
You should know your dogs lines backwards and forwards. Who has won what, competed in what and produced what. You should be able to tell me a little about a few dogs in the lines and what they are doing as well.
Know where your dogs are and be able to give me MANY references. Have a stringent placement policy. I don't mind answering as many questions as I ask. I would prefer you make me prove why I am a good home, it speaks volumes to your character as a breeder.
Breeding Stock:
Should come from applicable registries, and be properly registered.
I require (no room for budging IMO) all parents and grandparents have been health tested (siblings, and other lineage as well is a plus) and that those results are available to me. This includes hips, elbows, heart (eyes and ears of afflicted breeds).
I prefer the dogs do something, whatever the breed was meant for and anything extra is just a plus. Meaning your dog should be active in SOMETHING, whether it is herding, agility, PP, Sch, pulling, carting, therapy, ect. Basically it should still have the functionality of what the breed was originally meant to be.
I want breeding stock to pass minimal temperament testing. ie one of the following: CGC, TT, ATTS, SDC so on and so forth.
I like that dogs are shown, and have a non-partisan evaluation on your dogs structure. However, I also have seen some really great dogs that have never hit the ring, so I can let that slide if everything else is on par. But bonus points being given to dogs that can show and work.
This particular breeding:
What the dogs are bringing to the table, so to speak. What does the bitch and stud bring to the table? What are their strengths and weaknesses? What do you hope to improve upon? What makes you think these two are a great pairing?
What have the dogs produced in the past? Where are the puppies of the litters? What are they doing or excelling at?
All puppies should have temperament and aptitude/stimulation testing done. You should know what puppies you think are best suited for what, what drives they have, etc.
Contract:
I like a general congenital defect "warranty". If the dog does have a defect I don't like to see the dog HAS to be returned. Nobody wants to do that, I think it is a breeder scape-goat clause. I think all breeders should have a "take the dog back (or find a suitable home) at any time" clause in addition. I do not like a contract with too many restrictions. If I have to treat my dog like fine china to keep him healthy than you have problems in your line that need fixed.
For any of you contemplating cross breeding I feel you need to know all the above of both breeds. In addition, be able to tell me what you are expecting of the cross, why crossing these two will make a dog better than either of the breeds singularly. You should also know what this cross has produced in the past.
Anyone else's thoughts?
As I have stated in the past I won't buy a dog from someone that I don't "know". Meaning someone that I haven't spoken to in length about their thoughts on training, feeding, lines, heck even their family, pastimes and house and the total dog environment. Not that I have to agree with everything (although that helps), I just like to have the overall picture of where my dog is coming from, and the confidence in knowing that the breeder knows what they are talking about; After all they should know more about the breed than me.
Breeders:
Should be able to tell me the standard almost verbatim. Yes, I feel you should know it that well. You should be able to recite EXACTLY what a "insert breed here" should be. This includes all things that are disqualifications as well. You should know the various registries and their standards as well, even if you are not using them.
You should know the top kennels in the breed, and who's producing what. You should be able to list the top 5-ish dogs in the breed in your opinion and know several others minimally. You should know who's competing in what and winning in the ring or field.
You should know your dogs lines backwards and forwards. Who has won what, competed in what and produced what. You should be able to tell me a little about a few dogs in the lines and what they are doing as well.
Know where your dogs are and be able to give me MANY references. Have a stringent placement policy. I don't mind answering as many questions as I ask. I would prefer you make me prove why I am a good home, it speaks volumes to your character as a breeder.
Breeding Stock:
Should come from applicable registries, and be properly registered.
I require (no room for budging IMO) all parents and grandparents have been health tested (siblings, and other lineage as well is a plus) and that those results are available to me. This includes hips, elbows, heart (eyes and ears of afflicted breeds).
I prefer the dogs do something, whatever the breed was meant for and anything extra is just a plus. Meaning your dog should be active in SOMETHING, whether it is herding, agility, PP, Sch, pulling, carting, therapy, ect. Basically it should still have the functionality of what the breed was originally meant to be.
I want breeding stock to pass minimal temperament testing. ie one of the following: CGC, TT, ATTS, SDC so on and so forth.
I like that dogs are shown, and have a non-partisan evaluation on your dogs structure. However, I also have seen some really great dogs that have never hit the ring, so I can let that slide if everything else is on par. But bonus points being given to dogs that can show and work.
This particular breeding:
What the dogs are bringing to the table, so to speak. What does the bitch and stud bring to the table? What are their strengths and weaknesses? What do you hope to improve upon? What makes you think these two are a great pairing?
What have the dogs produced in the past? Where are the puppies of the litters? What are they doing or excelling at?
All puppies should have temperament and aptitude/stimulation testing done. You should know what puppies you think are best suited for what, what drives they have, etc.
Contract:
I like a general congenital defect "warranty". If the dog does have a defect I don't like to see the dog HAS to be returned. Nobody wants to do that, I think it is a breeder scape-goat clause. I think all breeders should have a "take the dog back (or find a suitable home) at any time" clause in addition. I do not like a contract with too many restrictions. If I have to treat my dog like fine china to keep him healthy than you have problems in your line that need fixed.
For any of you contemplating cross breeding I feel you need to know all the above of both breeds. In addition, be able to tell me what you are expecting of the cross, why crossing these two will make a dog better than either of the breeds singularly. You should also know what this cross has produced in the past.
Anyone else's thoughts?
