Protection dog sport

Discussion in 'Obedience & Sports' started by moose, Mar 1, 2010.

  1. moose

    moose Well-Known Member

    Hi Everyone !!

    I have been searching around and I found a trainer that does protection dog sport. I was just wonder if anyone has any experience with this, what are some good questions to ask the trainer when I call her, and any other information would be very helpful:)

    Thank you, Brielle
  2. Sabrina

    Sabrina Well-Known Member

    make sure she understands your dog's breed and doesnt try to start the dog before it is "ready"- this can mean so many different things....i dont know much about the DDB maturity development, but we tried to start protection too early with dino and it caused some anxiety issues i believe...make sure she knows how to test if your dog's temperment is suited for this kind of work...good luck!
  3. moose

    moose Well-Known Member

    Thanks! Yeah I have been doing some research on what a good puppy for the sport would consist of and i really haven't found that much on it, which makes me nervous. I will definitely keep in mind the maturity aspect too. I plan on calling her sometime this week, so i wanted to get as much questions to ask her as possible!!
  4. Dino

    Dino Member

    If you have your dog tested.make sure they don't work your dog in looks impressive,but there's no need for a new dog to be worked like want all prey drive building.
  5. Casa del Sol

    Casa del Sol Well-Known Member

    Keep in mind also that it is a mastiff breed, therefore it will work a bit differently than some of the other breeds used in protection work.
    Mastiff breeds have a different style of working, so ensure your trainer has experience with working mastiff breeds.
    Some trainers only have experience with GSDs or Malinois type breeds, and try to force some of those training methods with Mastiff breeds.
  6. I3rendanG

    I3rendanG Well-Known Member

    Great feedback from everyone.
    I'll add my .02 for anyone who's interested.

    Training herders as compared to molossers/bully breeds is completely different as previous posters have mentioned. The mechanics as to how the perspective breeds work is rooted in instinct. To get the most out of your molosser/bully breed you should know the following:

    1) initial protection work should be rooted in prey/play. Making the game too serious too soon and forcing a dog into defense can limit their usefulness/ability to think clearly/be responsive during sport/protection work.

    Not all mastiffs have a lot of prey to begin with. A very experienced trainer can work these dogs with "prey guarding" which is tech light defense techniques to initially start the prey building process.

    2) Bull breeds typically thrive on the conflict. Pressure is not necessarily viewed by them as a penality. It's part of the challenge and they are more than happy to see it through, readily eating appropriate levels of physical contact and verbal vocalizations depending on their experience level. A herder (typically) will fight and enjoy it to some extent, but he sees the fight as just that, a fight where he might lose if the guy is too tough. Pressure is a negative to him because it gives the impression that he might NOT win and that’s why he is doing it to WIN.

    The combat dog is the opposite. Yes he too wants to win (no one wants to lose), but the fight is what he really enjoys. He is not fighting because he wants to win, winning or losing doesn't occur to them until it happens. He is fighting because he wants to fight. The more fight the better. It’s not a penalty at all, it’s what they want (even if they don’t know it at first). As soon as they win they should want to fight again. Not, crap calmly with a full mouth and enjoy the win. And don’t mistake wanting to fight again with wanting to play again.

    If you want your molosser to be interested in protection he must be challenged from day one! Not dominated or nursed!

    This is where the skill of the decoy is paramount. Applying the appropriate amount of pressure and backing off at just the right time will encourage the dog to enjoy the game - and view it as just that. A game between themselves and the decoy. The decoy is his sparring partner - who makes him work to relieve stress by fighting with intensity. Stress relief is either securing the bite or causing the decoy to flee, or being told to out/release the decoy.

    3) because they are combat/gripping dogs getting them to out can be difficult. Using physical force on a combat dog which serves as a negative correction is merely viewed as part of the fight - they will deal with the pain because it's what the "work" entails. Multiple prong snaps or taps on the nose which works on herders maaay not work on molossers. I highly recommend tug games with your dog at home early - teaching the out prior to starting combative pressure through protection work. Where his incentive to let go is greatly diminished. I found choking the dog off the grips is an easier method towards teaching the out - and then quickly offering them the bite again so they can associate outing with regripping - making the out itself - when asked the reward.
  7. Tirion

    Tirion New Member

    l3rendanG's .02 actually helped me a lot :D I did some research myself, but your i guess most of this depends on how good the trainer is. Gotta continue searching for a good one then.

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