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New Pup!

WyomingWild

Well-Known Member
Hi Everyone!

So we got our new Fila Pup yesterday! Very excited! He looks and acts healthy. He is a male Brindle and very haven't picked out a name yet.

Just curious as to everyone's experiences raising fila pups. He is already proving to be very different then raising other dogs. We used to raise labs for Guide Dogs for the Blind. I'm realizing how spoiled I was with raising a lab at 8 weeks old (bred to be very submissive and calm) versus our lovely, loud Fila that just wants to be next to you. Don't get me wrong. I love that he just wants to be next to me...all the time. It's very special. The labs we raised would sleep any where, and wouldn't mind to be away from you. I know a Fila is very far from a lab, so not comparing them, just my experiences. Anyone have tips on teaching him to be quiet in his kennel? He will fall asleep on my lap at any given moment. In the kennel however, I have to practically put him to bed like a child. No leaving him to lay down or fall asleep on his own. If I sit with him he will eventually fall asleep and I can shut the kennel, sit there a little longer to make sure he is asleep and then he is good. For a bit. :) Any tips would be appreciated. I would love for him to learn that the kennel is a safe place to be and to be able to be in there with out me putting him to sleep. I know its early too, just had our first night last night and I am happy with how he did. Just want to make sure we are doing it right. And.. some encouragement that this is normal for the Fila breed. :) Thanks!

To make everything better ;) we just got dumped with snow..and he doesn't love it that much. Who would it's up to your head? ( no worries though, we shoveled an area out so he isn't sinking in it. and I'm tempted to make him a sweater or something...a little spoiled?? I can't decide :) )

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musicdeb

Well-Known Member
Welcome aboard and welcome to your new family member~ We have a few Fila owners and I'm sure they will post to help you out with your new baby.

The following tips/suggestions are based on my experience as a dog mommy, forum member*s posts and volunteering at an animal shelter for a year.

*CRATE THE PUP

You want to crate train the pup. Make sure you have a blanket, stuffed animal (about their size) and white noise (ticking clock or ipod with soft music) so the pup can sleep. The pup is used to cuddling with siblings.

Make the crate the pup*s happy place to go to when he wants to sleep, decompress or just hang out.

*SECURE THE PUP NEAR THE FAMILY

You want to keep the pup in a room with a family member. Mastiffs need to be near their family members.

*FOOD

Find out what kind of food the shelter/rescue/breeder was feeding the pup and continue to feed it to the pup until you transition to a newer food because most shelters/rescues/breeders use the cheapest food, meaning it is not very good for the pup.

Slow transition to the new food is as follows to prevent diarrhea. If at any time during the transition, the pup has diarrhea return to previous amounts of food per feeding. If you are switching flavors made by the same manufacturer, you should not have to do a slow transition.

Amount per feeding:

Day 1-4 ¾ cup of old food and ¼ cup of new food.

Day 5-9 ½ cup of old food and ½ cup of new food.

Day 10-14 ¾ cup of new food and ¼ cup of old food

Day 15 Start 100% of new food

OR

You can feed the pup boiled meat and boiled white rice with canned/raw pumpkin (not the pie filling) usually start with 1 teaspoon or the pumpkin for young puppies and 1-2 tablespoons of pumpkin for pups older than 8-10 months for 4-5 days to reset their system. After the reset, start the new food.

Generally, mastiffs are allergic to grain and chicken found in kibble. You can check www.dogfoodadvisor.com for dog food ratings and customer feedback. Mastiff puppies should eat Large Breed adult food because puppy food has too much calcium which causes fast growth. Slow and steady growth for a healthy mastiff. Protein in the food is not an issue unless the pup has kidney issues.

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1659&aid=652

Dog Food FAQs: Protein

Check out Acana Regionals, Wellness Core, Castor & Pollux Grain Free, Earthborn Holistics, Fromm*s, Innova Natures Table, Victor*s Grain Free or Taste of the Wild grain free. Chewy.com is a great place to order dog food and they offer free shipping.

You may want to check out the raw diet for your pup. Raw diet can be fed to young pups. Check out the sub forum on raw diet that has a wealth of information. It is not recommended to feed the pup kibble (one with grains) and raw food. Do your research re: raw diet and form your own opinion.

*PUP NOT EATING WHEN YOU FIRST BRING THEM HOME

They are not used to their new environment and this is a natural behavior. Take the pup to a quiet place at meal times and sit and hand feed the pup. This will help the pup to eat when they are placed in a calm atmosphere, help you to bond with the pup and help the pup establish trust with you. As they become settled, they will naturally follow your routine.

*PROTECT THE PUP FROM DISEASE

Keep the pup in your yard and place newspapers down where they will walk on the ground. Keep the pup away from dog areas unless they have had their 2nd round of shots, 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] round of shots is best so they will have some immunity to the infectious diseases, i.e. Parvo. This is very important!

*HOUSE TRAINING YOUR PUP

Keep pup on leash when you take them outside. Train them with a potty word, like “potty.” Generally, it takes a pup 20-25 minutes to do their business. When the pup goes potty, do the potty dance. The potty dance is a dance while you are singing the pup*s praises for going potty. It works!

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/dog-behavior/house-training-your-puppy

*SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE AND SOCIALIZE SOME MORE

Socialize after they*ve had at least 2 round of shots preferably 3 rounds of shots to be safe. Prior to the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] or 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] round of shots, keep the pup in your own yard. If that is not possible, bring newspapers with you for the pup to walk on. Avoid dog parks and areas with a heavy traffic of animals.

Socialization can be the human park while the pup is on leash, riding in the car, sitting at the park or shopping center/mall, etc.

Tell strangers and strangers with pups “no touch, no talk, no look” at your pup as they approach. Bring your pup to sit while they approach. Have your pup approach the strangers and allow the pup to sniff them. Have a calm, controlled meeting. This shows your pup the correct way to greet strangers and other pups.

*TRAINING YOUR PUP

Start basic commands and reward with motivational treats (fav food or fav toy). Train for about 5 minutes per day and slowly increase the training time. Teach one command at a time. Once they master one command, move onto another command.


Number one command is sit. Teach the pup to sit, by placing a treat in front of his head and move it to the back causing him to sit to get the treat. When the pup sits, tell them good sit and give them the treat.

Second command should be "focus/look" This will help you tremendously when the pup is over 100 lbs. Put the pup into sit. With a treat in your hand (let the pup smell it), put the treat up to your eyes and tell the pup to look or focus. They may only do this for about 1-2 seconds. As soon as they look at your eyes, reward them. Generally, mastiffs do not like to look anyone in the eyes for long because that means a challenge to them.

Other commands are "down/off", "leave it," "wait" (short pause), "stay" (pausing until you release), drop it and "quiet/calm".

When you are training and when the pup does not do as you ask, then tell him “no” in a calm, stern voice and redirect back to the command. The only time a stern and loud NO should be used is when they are doing something that can cause harm to themselves or others.


Praise is the most powerful tool you have and the dog WANTS to please you. Show them clearly what you want, notice and praise when they comply, and learning goes much faster and pleasant for you both.

Mastiffs can be extremely stubborn and if you get frustrated with them, they will shut down and stop listening to you. Mastiffs do not do well with yelling or hitting. Hitting can result in some unwanted mastiff behavior meaning fear aggression, which equals biting.

*LEASH TRAINING

Have the wear the leash around the house to get used to it. Once they are used to the leash around their neck, then you can start the leash training. Have lots of motivational rewards on hand while doing the training. Consistency and patience is key.

If the dog pulls, do not walk until they stop and turn to look at you, then thank them with a motivational reward and start walking again. Tell him it's ok to walk by you start walking. When you have to stop, tell him stop or wait and tell him sit. Titan knows that when we are walking and I say, "wait," he has to stop and sit and wait for me to begin walking again. Requires a lot of consistent training and patience. Do this inside the house and then move to outside.

If they nip at you because they want to play, do the same. Stop, sit and wait. Reward the dog with motivational reward when they do the commands.


*PUPPY BITING/NIPPING/AROUND CHILDREN

Puppies will chew/bite anything they can find unless you re-direct the chewing/biting. Provide frozen washcloths or small towels (make sure the cloths are big enough the pup cannot swallow them), ice cubes with treats frozen in the middle, nylabones, ropes, deer antlers, Kongs with frozen yogurt so they can chew to their heart*s desire. Some people use boxes, be aware that the pup will continue to chew all boxes.

If you puppy is biting/nipping, then try the following. This behavior can sometimes take a lot of patience and consistency in training.

They bite and growl because that is how they played with their siblings.
When they bite, tell them “OW” in a high-pitched voice and “NO” in a stern, calm voice. NEVER HIT OR YELL AT A MASTIFF. Hitting can lead to fear aggression and yelling causes the pup to shut down on you and ignore you.

When the pup stops biting, tell them to sit and re-direct to one of the chew toys.

Teach the pup “leave it” is another option. When the pup “leaves it” meaning your body part that he is biting, then bring to a sit and reward with motivational reward.

**Do not allow children and pup on the floor together. Pup will see them as playmates and nip at them. Picture the pup playing with their siblings.

Keep the pup on leash while the children are on the floor so you can have control of the pup. Pup and children should not be allowed to play alone.

Have the children hand fed the pup and help with training, i.e. teach the pup to sit, stay and come. This helps the pup to see them as non-playmates but as people in authority. These activities are great bonding exercises.

*EXERCISE

Puppies can exercise with natural movements and free play like running, stretching, playing on soft surfaces (grass and dirt). This type of exercise is actually healthy and good for their developing bodies but they do need to be able to pace themselves.

Structured exercise/play on hard surfaces and where they don't have they ability to pace themselves is where you need to be very careful. This type of exercise could harm the pup*s joints and bones. Puppies should not do any excessive exercise, i.e. walking, jumping, running and navigate stairs for the first 12 months to avoid injury.

Stairs should be maneuvered while on leash (even in the house) especially going down the stairs. Stairs should have carpet or rubber matting to give the pup traction. Mastiffs should be assisted up and down stairs until they are about age 12 months to prevent injury.

Most mastiffs can be very lazy but they still need to exercise. Generally, the amount of time to exercise is 5 minutes per each month of age.

*YOUR PUP AND HEAT (NOT THE FEMALE HEAT)

Remember, mastiffs do not tolerate heat. In the heat, reduce walk/exercise times. Have clean water available at all times. I freeze towels to either place on Titan or put on the floor for him to lie on in the summer to cool him off. Buy a kiddies* pool for the pup to play in to keep cool.

*DE-SEXING YOUR PUP

Mastiffs should not be neutered/spayed until 18 months to 2 years. NO MATTER what the vet says. Early neutering can cause growth problems and health issues. **Remember, you must be a very responsible dog owner to not neuter your pet to prevent unwanted pregnancies.**


Health Issues Linked to Spaying and Neutering Dogs


Enjoy your baby! Have lots of patience! The pup will reward you with love and loyalty!
 

TricAP

Well-Known Member
What a beautiful boy! And welcome to the forum. You've come to the right place to get your questions answered. We also had labs for years and in the past year got our first mastiff breed - an English Mastiff boy named Angus. Yes there is a WORLD of difference in the temperaments of labs and mastiffs who are much more like human babies than puppies at times. I'm sure some of the other fila people will chime in and give you specifics. Again Welcome!
 

angelbears

Well-Known Member
Cute pup!!!

All I can say is be very, very careful. Fila's are prone to severe separation anxiety. Put a stop to it now. Make him spend time alone.

Good luck.
 

nds_xo

Well-Known Member
so gorgeous!


banned here in the uk so have never actually seen one - but he looks totally gorgeous!
x
 

WyomingWild

Well-Known Member
Thank you! AngelBears, That is what we are concerned about. Husband said that he made him spend some time by himself in the living room on a tie down while my husband was working around the house and that he whined a bit but finally ended up chewing on a toy and then going to sleep. Glad to hear that :) Making progress on the second day :)
 

Max's mom

Well-Known Member
My Max was a lot like a human baby too. He'd whine when I put him in the crate but I did not give in...NOT ONCE. I started him off right away leaving him in the crate 5-10 min at a time and always with a treat. He learned very early on that the crate was his safe place. He still gets a special treat when it's "time to get in bed". I leave him up to 6 hours now in the crate while working and he his fine. He does love to be with me and the kids say he whines when I leave for at least 10 minutes. But he whines when he is bored too and when he is rounding up his stuffed toys. The crate is always open other than when I am at work and though he is not made to sleep in it at night, he often goes in on his own. When it's loud or too many people are in the house, he goes in to hide. Your pup will learn but be careful about what you are teaching him! Let him out once when he whines and it's over. He has to be quiet and settled before you open the door. Mine is an EM, not Fila, but I think they are all smart and learn the way to manipulate their mamas!
 

WyomingWild

Well-Known Member
Thank you Max's Mom. I definitely agree. We are "laying down the law" With love of course. But we make sure to not take him out when he is whining. We calmly praise him too when he is quiet for a period of time. He definitely seems to be "getting it"

I guess I was just surprised with how vocal he is. We also quit the "putting him to sleep deal". We just put him in there and he whines for about 15 mins and then goes to sleep or lays down quietly. I think he knows that the kennel is a safe spot now. He just needs to grow out of the whining for 15 mins before calming down. The treat idea is good too, we will be picking up a small kong toy that we can fill or put some treats in. We have also started training time in the kennel. I make him go in, then he gets praise and a small treat when he does. Then we make him sit in there quietly with the door open. Once he quits trying to walk out and stops whining, he gets calm praise and a small treat. We progress until we can shut the door without him trying to get out and is just sitting there calmly. We finish once he lay down and stays there quietly. We end the session by sitting calmly while we open the door and "invite" him to come out. He doesn't get to come out on his own. He did really well yesterday with this training exercise and I think its helping him understand that the kennel isn't a bad place. We also have been putting him on a tie down in the house while we are cooking or cleaning or whatever. He whines there too, but we ignore him until he calms down. lays down or just focuses on chewing on a toy or something. Then he gets a calm "good boy" and we go on with doing whatever. I really want him to learn to be confident and comfortable with out us right next to him.
 

angelbears

Well-Known Member
Have you left him alone in the house yet? Do so, if only for 5 minutes, a couple times a day. Longer if you can.

If I go outside my guy stands at the door baying. It is the saddest thing you have ever heard.
 

WyomingWild

Well-Known Member
Hi :) yes we have. My husband is currently on night shift and I work days. So our schedules are as follows right now. He is home 2am-3pm and I get home from work at 4:30 pm. So he was alone in kennel from 3-4:30pm yesterday. Husband said he whined but then stopped. When I got home he was quiet/sleeping but woke up when I walked in. I took him potty then did our Kennel training exercises. Later I ran to the store from 6:30-7pm. Short time but he whined when I put him in there, when I got back he was quiet.
 

spearchucker

Well-Known Member
Congrats on the new pup. Does he have a playmate? Where did you get him? Our female was 2 when we got our pup. Kinda funny to see just what she would do to get away from him for a break.
 

WyomingWild

Well-Known Member
Thank you :) we have two other dogs and a cat. Needless to say, the cat has been more of a playmate than the dogs. I don't think the dogs are too happy with us. They haven't warmed up to him yet :/ Boerbel is 6years, lab is 5years
 

glen

Super Moderator
Staff member
that pup is adorable,keep the pics coming,filas are the breed i dream to own.banned here.
 

WyomingWild

Well-Known Member
Thank you everyone! I will get more pics, and some video! He is really starting to show a lot of personality. He was playing today just rolling around laying on his back. He also knows sit now!
 

WyomingWild

Well-Known Member
Here are some more pictures. Only time I seem to be able to snap a pic is when he is sleeping haha :) TricAP had a fabulous idea about potty training outside in our cold icey temps. She suggested to lay down straw and it has been the trick! Bear enjoys going potty outside and playing in it now :)
He is whining much less and settling in to our routine and life! Had him checked out by our vet and he said he was beautiful and healthy :)

Bear.jpgBear on Lap.jpgBear Sleeping.jpgBear_Lap.jpg