New EM Puppy Bane

Discussion in 'English Mastiff' started by TylerDurden, Oct 29, 2017.

  1. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

    Hello everyone.
    This is my first post, but I‘ve read a lot, annd do really appreciate everybody‘s opinion around here. This is certainly a great place to learn more from very experienced owners.

    My wife and I just got our EM puppy named Bane. He id turning 10 weeks. Potty training has been going very well (no accidents except for one the very first day). We did connect his crate to a large play pen where he spends time while we are not at home.

    With that being said, he likes his crate (has his bed inside and is just about the right size). However, he would only going in for 30 minute periods and we have not closed the door of it yet. At night, he sleeps on the floor of his play pen, but doesn‘t really go to his crate for longer periods. Should we start training on going to the crate more often/longer?

    Having him in the play pen works well, but I‘m a little concerned about the time when he gets bigger. Will EMs still accept the boundaries of a play pen, or will they just start pushing it around? We take him to three walks per day and have hours of play time. At the same time, he will be going to puppy school, and we have started socialization (neighbors, my parents, some kids etc.).

    Sorry about the long post. My questions are really about the crate behavior and the play pen as soon as he gets bigger. We are looking for a solid solution while we are away from work. As many of you can probably confirm, it wouldn‘t be the best idea to give a 3-6 month old EM unlimited access to the entire house while we are gone.

    Thank you in advance.
     
    April Nicole likes this.
  2. Smokeycat

    Smokeycat Well-Known Member

    Congratulations on your puppy.
    I think it is a good idea for every dog to be comfortable being inside a locked crate. You never know what may happen in the future that may require grating and it is better for them to be relaxed than panicking. As for the pen continuing to work based on my experience even little things will block Kryten. Occasionally his own you across his path can prevent him entering/exiting a space.
     
    April Nicole likes this.
  3. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

    Thank you very much, Smokeycat. I‘ve been reading most of your posts about Kryten, and he‘s a beautiful dog! Also, my wife and I have been closely watching his growth chart with great interest. Our "little" seems to be growing a little faster, but it is always great to have some kind of reference. Thanks for all your contributions to this forum. I will post some pictures of Bane.
     
  4. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

    8CE04FEA-2EDC-4E7B-A0F6-591F51B1A878.jpeg
    Bane at about 10 weeks of age.
     
    April Nicole likes this.
  5. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

    5F1173DD-1067-4AAB-8A05-34D6EC208601.jpeg
    Bane today at 16 weeks.

    He weighs about 60 pounds. I knew that he would be growing fast, but I had no idea how fast!! His parents are 225 and 185 pounds.
     
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  6. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

    C00C5987-290B-4AAD-887A-76A40D6E2DB6.jpeg
    He loves trips in the car.
     
    April Nicole and Jarena like this.
  7. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

  8. Boxergirl

    Boxergirl Well-Known Member

    Bane is so handsome!
     
  9. Smokeycat

    Smokeycat Well-Known Member

    Thank you. Kryten was definately on slow end of growth rates. Bane is adorable.
     
  10. kingmark

    kingmark Active Member

  11. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

    1AF133A2-4E37-4E4C-B2FD-45FDF856B13F.jpeg Thank you all very much for your kind comments. Bane is 17 weeks old and weighs about 65 pounds. That sounds like a lot, but compared with all the different Mastiff growth charts on the internet, it is really hard to tell. Do you think he‘s going to be on the bigger side? It really doesn‘t matter to us, but it‘s probably the curiosity of proud "parents".
     
    April Nicole likes this.
  12. Bailey's Mom

    Bailey's Mom Super Moderator Staff Member

    Welcome Bane and Tyler Durden,

    Recently a member asked about this wonderful list created by one of our members and I reached out to her to get a copy for our newest members. I'm going to try to pin it to the top of one of the categories so that it will be readily available for all our members, especially for our new parents who are grappling with all that is necessary to raise a happy, healthy, well balanced dog.

    MUSIC DEB’S AGELESS WISDOM FOR NEW DOG PARENTS


    (with permission)


    Congratulations, you have a new family member! The following tips may help you and your puppy/rescue dog.



    *CRATE TRAINING




    You want to crate train. PUPPIES: Make sure you have a blanket, stuffed animal (about their size) and white noise (ticking clock or ipod with soft music) so the dog can sleep. The dog is used to cuddling with their siblings.



    Make the crate the dog’s happy place to go to when they want to sleep, decompress or just hang out.



    *FOOD



    Find out what kind of food the shelter/rescue/breeder was feeding the dog and continue to feed it to the dog until you transition to a newer food, if you decide to change the food.



    **Slow transition to the new food is as follows to prevent diarrhea. If at any time during the transition, the pup has diarrhea return to previous amounts of food per feeding. If you are switching flavors made by the same manufacturer, you should not have to do a slow transition. **



    Amount per feeding:



    Day 1-4 ¾ cup of old food and ¼ cup of new food.



    Day 5-9 ½ cup of old food and ½ cup of new food.



    Day 10-14 ¾ cup of new food and ¼ cup of old food



    Day 15 Start 100% of new food



    OR



    You can feed the dog boiled meat and boiled white rice with canned/raw pumpkin (not the pie filling) usually start with 1 teaspoon of pumpkin for young puppies and 1-2 tablespoons of pumpkin for dogs older than 8-10 months for 4-5 days to reset their system. After the reset, start the new food.


    If the dog is allergic to grain and/or chicken found in kibble: Checkwww.dogfoodadvisor.com dog food ratings and customer feedback. NOTE: Mastiff puppies SHOULD eat Large Breed adult food or All Stage food because puppy food has too much calcium causing fast growth. Slow and steady growth for a healthy mastiff. Protein in the food is not an issue unless the pup has kidney issues.



    http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1659+1662&aid=652



    http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=459



    Check out Acana Regionals, Wellness Core, Castor & Pollux Grain Free, Earthborn Holistics, Fromms, Whole Farms and Victor’s Grain Free. Do your best to feed human-grade dog food.



    You may want to check out the raw diet or home-cooked diet for your dog. Raw diet can be fed to puppies. It is not recommended to feed the dog kibble (one with grains) and raw food. Do your research re: raw diet and home-cooked diet and form your own opinion.

    http://rawfed.com/



    http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/15_7/features/Home-Prepared-Dog-Food-Nutritional-Information_20568-1.html



    *DOG NOT EATING WHEN YOU FIRST BRING THEM HOME




    This is a natural behavior because they are stressed in their new environment. Place the dog in a quiet place at meal times and sit and hand feed them. This will help them to eat when they are placed in a calm atmosphere, help you to bond with them and help them to trust you. As they become settled, they will naturally follow your routine.



    *PROTECTING THEM FROM DISEASE



    This is very important for puppies younger than 3 months of age! Keep the dog in your yard and place newspapers down where they will walk on the ground. Keep the pup away from dog areas unless they have had their 2nd round of shots, 3rd round of shots is best so they will have some immunity to the infectious diseases, i.e. Parvo.



    *HOUSE TRAINING



    Keep the dog on leash when you take them outside. Train them with a potty word, like “potty.” Generally, it can take 20-25 minutes for them to do their business. When the dog goes potty, do the potty dance. The potty dance is a dance while you are singing the dog’s praises for going potty. It works!



    If the dog/puppy has an accident, do not punish the dog/puppy. If you catch them in the act, tell them “no” in a calm, firm voice and bring them outside. If you do not catch them in the act, there is not much you can do. When a dog/puppy has an accident, it is not their fault because they usually have “tell” to let you know they need to go outside.



    Puppies have very small bladders and they will need to go outside at least every 2-3 hours. Some people use pee pads, but this could lead to the puppy only going to the bathroom on paper and more difficult to train them to go outside.



    *SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE AND SOCIALIZE SOME MORE




    Puppies: Socialize after they’ve had at least their 2nd round of shots preferably 3 rounds of shots to be safe. Prior to the 2nd or 3rd round of shots, keep the pup in your own yard. If that is not possible, bring newspapers with you for the dog to walk on. Avoid dog parks and areas with a heavy traffic of animals.



    Puppies/Rescue dogs: Socialization can be the human park while the dog is on leash, riding in the car, sitting at the park or shopping center/mall, etc.



    **Tell strangers and strangers “no touch, no talk, no look” as they approach you and your dog. Bring your dog to sit while they approach. Have your dog approach the strangers and allow the dog to sniff them. Have a calm, controlled meeting. This shows your dog the correct way to greet strangers and other dogs.**


    *TRAINING



    First: The key to successful training is LOTS of patience, consistency and positive reinforcement with motivational reward. Training is a lifetime commitment.



    Puppies/Rescue dogs: Start with basic commands and reward with motivational reward, i.e. fav food or toy. Train for about 5 minutes per day and slowly increase the training time. Teach one command at a time. Once they master one command, move onto another command.



    First command should be “sit”. Teach them to “sit”, by placing a treat in front of their head and move it to the back causing them to “sit” to get the treat. When the dog “sits”, tell them good “sit” and reward them.



    Second command should be "focus/look”. This will help you tremendously if the dog will be an adult dog of 50+ pounds. Place the dog into “sit”. With a treat in your hand (let the dog smell it), put the treat up to your eyes and tell the dog to “look or focus”. They may only do this for about 1-2 seconds. As soon as they look at your eyes, reward them. Generally, guardian breeds and pit bulls do not like to look anyone in the eyes for longer than a few seconds because that represents a challenge to them.



    Other commands are "down/off", "leave it," "wait" (short pause), "stay" (pausing until you release), “drop it” and "quiet/calm".



    When you are training and the dog does not do as you ask, then give them a word or sound that brings their attention back to you. I use “uh uh” in a calm, stern voice.



    The only time a stern and loud “NO” should be used is when they are doing something that can cause harm to themselves or others.



    Praise is the most powerful tool you have and the dog WANTS to please you. Show them clearly what you want, notice and praise when they comply, and learning goes much faster and pleasant for you both.


    **Some breeds can be extremely stubborn and if you get frustrated with them, they will shut down and stop listening to you. It is best to not yell or strike a dog when they do not do well with the training. It’s best you take a break and start again when you are no longer frustrated. Hitting a dog can result in some unwanted behavior, i.e. fear aggression, which could result in biting.**



    *LEASH TRAINING




    Puppies/rescue dogs: Have the dog wear the leash around the house to get used to it. Once they are used to the leash around their neck, then you can start the leash training. Have lots of motivational rewards on hand while doing the training. Consistency and patience is key.



    If the dog pulls while walking, tell them “wait” and stop walking. Place the dog in “sit” and reward. Tell the dog “ok” or “come” to start walking again. Requires a lot of consistent training and patience. Do this inside the house and then move to outside.



    If they nip at you while on leash, they want to play. Tell the dog “uh uh” or your stop word, place them in “sit” and reward.



    *BITING/NIPPING/AROUND CHILDREN



    Puppies will chew/bite anything they can find unless you re-direct the chewing/biting. This is normal puppy behavior! Provide frozen washcloths or small towels (make sure the cloths are big enough the pup cannot swallow them), ice cubes with treats frozen in the middle, plastic water/coke/milk bottles, Nylabones, ropes, deer antlers, cardboard boxes to destroy (make sure they do not eat the cardboard), Kongs with frozen yogurt so they can chew to their heart’s desire.



    Puppies bite and growl because that is normal play with their siblings.



    If the dog is biting/nipping, try the following. This behavior requires a lot of patience and consistency in training.



    When they bite, tell them “OW” in a high-pitched voice and “NO” in a stern, calm voice. NEVER HIT OR YELL AT THE PUPPY/DOG. Hitting can lead to fear aggression and yelling causes the dog to shut down on you and ignore you.



    When the dog stops biting, place the dog in “sit” and re-direct to one of the chew toys, i.e. ice cubes with treats, freeze small bowls of water, freeze large hand towels (large enough they will not swallow), cardboard boxes, deer antlers, ropes or Nylabones.



    Teach the pup “leave it”. When the pup “leaves it” meaning they stop biting your body part, then bring the dog to a “sit” and reward.



    **DO NOT allow children and pup on the floor together. The dog will see them as playmates and nip at them. Picture the dog playing with their siblings.



    Keep the dog on leash while the children are on the floor so you can have control of the dog. The dog and children should not be allowed to play alone.



    **Great bonding exercises: have the children hand-feed the pup and help with training, i.e. teach the pup to “sit”, “stay” and “come”. This helps the pup to see them as non-playmates and as people in authority.



    *EXERCISE



    Puppies can exercise with natural movements and free play like running, stretching, playing on soft surfaces (grass and dirt). This type of exercise is actually healthy and good for their developing bodies.



    Structured exercise/play on hard surfaces and where they don't have they ability to pace themselves is where you need to be very careful. This type of exercise could harm the puppies joints and bones. **Puppies should not do any excessive exercise, i.e. walking, jumping, running and navigating stairs for the first 12 months to avoid injury.**



    Stairs should be maneuvered while on leash (even in the house) especially going down the stairs. Stairs should have carpet or rubber matting to give the puppy traction. Puppies should be assisted up and down stairs until they are about age 12 months to prevent injury.



    Generally, the amount of time to exercise is 5 minutes per each month of age.


    *SUMMER HEAT



    **Breeds will small muzzles do not tolerate heat and will overheat rather quickly which can result in their death. In the heat, reduce walk/exercise times. Have clean water available at all times. Use a kiddie pool to keep them cool. I freeze towels to either place on my dog or put on the floor for him to lie on in the summer to cool him off.



    Enjoy your new family member! They will reward you with love and loyalty!
     
    Sheila Braund and trg like this.
  13. Smokeycat

    Smokeycat Well-Known Member

    Growth rate has less to do with adult size than the parents size. Given the sizes listed above as long as neither parent was over weight your likely going to have a 200 pounder (or around there) when he's done growing.
     
  14. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

    I thought I would post a 30-week update:


    Weeks Weight (in pounds)
    8 15
    9 20
    10 25
    11 30
    12 35
    13 40
    14 45
    15 50
    16 56
    17 62
    18 68
    19 73
    20 78
    21 84
    22 90
    23 96
    24 102
    25 107
    26 113
    27 119
    28 125
    29 131
    30 137
     
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  15. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

  16. trg

    trg Active Member

    He looks great, can’t wait, get my pup this Saturday.
     
    TylerDurden likes this.
  17. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

    Thank you. Great to hear that it‘s finally time to get your pup. This is going to be an exciting weekend! Based on the pictures you posted, I would say he is going to be a big boy, too :). Congratulations again!!
     
    trg likes this.
  18. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

  19. Sheila Braund

    Sheila Braund Well-Known Member

    Handsome boy you have there
     
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  20. TylerDurden

    TylerDurden Well-Known Member

    Thank you, Sheila. I remember the day we brought him home at 8 weeks, and now 5 months later, he is heavier than his (human) mom. Great to see how this shy little guy has developed into a well behaved, confident, and overall very happy dog.
     
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