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How to choose the right trainer?

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
Got it, use no and not no no no. Yes, I will take baby steps towards the goal of getting him close to other people, especially men and other pups.

In the apartment, when he sees someone walk by the apartment he will bark. I will tell him after 2-3 barks, to leave it. He will actually turn around and look at me like he's looking to me to say it's ok which I do. Am I doing that right? It works, he will stop barking.
 

Hector

Well-Known Member
I did not do the drill which I find very helpful. Yes, he does very well on the focus on me if I catch him before he enters the strike zone.

2 days ago, I was walking him to the car to go to the park. There was a man walking on right side towards us and a female walking on the left side walking towards us. I told Titan to leave it and sit. We were next to the car. The man turned around and walked away from us and then he turned around really quick and walked rather fast towards us.

Titan saw the man and then by that time, the woman right next to us. Titan lunged at the woman. Thankfully, the woman was about 10 feet from us when he lunged. Titan then looked at the man and lunged at him. It happened so quickly.

I was able to hold him while I was telling him leave it. Within seconds, Titan had stopped and came to me.

I apologized to the man but the woman was already too far away from us because she sped up her walking past us.

After that, I started to think that I didn't have it under control. Today showed otherwise. I think I just freaked out.

I hope I answered your question, Linda.

Wow now isn't that nice. You see a big dog and just start walk why not just run towards the dog like it's not there!! REALLY???....wow.....well at least now you found an effective way to work with Titan. Go Deb and Titan!
 

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
Wow now isn't that nice. You see a big dog and just start walk why not just run towards the dog like it's not there!! REALLY???....wow.....well at least now you found an effective way to work with Titan. Go Deb and Titan!
Yea, people are just idiots. Thanks Linda!
 

Hector

Well-Known Member
Got it, use no and not no no no. Yes, I will take baby steps towards the goal of getting him close to other people, especially men and other pups.

In the apartment, when he sees someone walk by the apartment he will bark. I will tell him after 2-3 barks, to leave it. He will actually turn around and look at me like he's looking to me to say it's ok which I do. Am I doing that right? It works, he will stop barking.

Yeah you don't want to be nagging at the dog. When Hector becomes focused on something on a walk, say another dog, I give the command "turn" and I give him a chance to comply, but if he doesn't comply then it's a NO, correction, "turn" command again. I know I'm not physically strong enough to give him a "good" correction (like you see in some yank and crank videos), but it's a good thing he's handler soft and a correction on a martingale will suffice. Otherwise I'd have to strive for arms the size of popeye's.

Sometimes he doesn't get a chance to "think about it" depending on the situation. Those are the times where the serious corrections come out. I have not been rewarding with food anymore. Instead I reward with no penalty yards and no leash pressure. I can't wait to hear more about Titan's progress. It definitely it gives you a boost of confidence when game plans actually work.
 

joshuagough

Well-Known Member
So, it sounds like it's a socialization issue. I went thru this with a recent rescue. This isn't always a easy one, it's not a hard process but it takes time, once they have been in the pattern your describing.

One thing I really focused on was "owning" the intro to a new person.. I would let her meet (1) person at a time. I made them stay where they were and I would hand them a few of treats to give to her, I would tell her to say Hi or whatever the term you use. Allow the dog to approach at their speed and take the treat, then immediately recall the dog (the leash should stay on the dog and in your hand the whole time).

No talking to the people or additional petting, I want the dog to take the food (associate the person with something good) and that's it.. move on. I did this with dozen's and dozen's of folks which basically just built up her confidence that new people weren't all trouble. You make sure you own the situation and be loud and vocal with the people so you end the meeting on a good note with the dog. If the dog doesn't want to meet the person move on, also know just like people dogs have there days.. some are better than others.. you just gotta keep at it.

As for objects I would walk up 6/7 feet from the object and use the leash to ensure the dog was at my side (in-line with my feet) not hiding behind me, they will try to back up.. growl.. whine etc. Just stand your ground and you can tell them it's ok etc, don't try to get any closer.. they will usually go thru a sniffing stage right there and lay down after a few minutes. Once I get that I move on to the next object (I did this in my neighborhood, garbage cans were a issue and a few other things).. then I repeat this same thing for a week.. then next week I go back to the same objects and get closer.. same deal, at some point your right up to the object or the dog breaks and goes up and sniffs the object and I praise them real big for this.

Hope that helps?


Well, he knows his basics....sit, down, stand, stay, come and shake. He has also been taught to wait....which I use when feeding--he "waits" for his food, or if leaving the house he has to "wait" while going through the door so that I go out first, and then wait again as I lock up.

My concerns are that he goes into, what I call his "zones" where he does not want to be bothered. If one person is petting him and another person comes up to pet him too...he will growl at that other person. He wants NOTHING to do with strangers....even meaning company in our home. If they look at him, he will growl. If they attempt to touch him--which they are told not to touch him, but not everyone listens--he will growl and run away. This is where I am guilty....I used to take him to work with me and if he didn't want to be bothered by someone that came into my office he would growl and come behind my desk. I then would pet him and tell him it was ok which I learned later only made his situation worse.

On walks he is terrified of anything out of place....say cars parked in places they normally aren't. There are a couple new houses being built in the neighborhood and the sounds of the construction scare him really bad. He's tried to dart away when he heard a drill start up. Once we were walking and a guy was getting into the trunk of his car. He saw the guy and was a little uneasy, but ok. Then the trunk slammed shortly after we passed and he darted. About took me down....was not ready for that.

The majority of the time he really is a good dog, but I've never had a dog with any of the issues he's coming out with and that's why my search for a trainer is so important. I need someone who will not be scared of his breed and give me the advice and training that I need in order to help him. Any advice you could give is greatly appreciated!!
 

joshuagough

Well-Known Member
Kind of a personal choice there.. however that's likely building up drive. I say that because he's barking.. then the person disappears all of the sudden because they are out of sight. So just logically thinking thru it what do you think his reaction is?

A DDB is gifted to understand someone's intent, if he thinks they are up to no good he'll react accordingly.

I don't want my dogs barking at anyone unless they look like they are out of place, or they make a move towards me or my wife.

Got it, use no and not no no no. Yes, I will take baby steps towards the goal of getting him close to other people, especially men and other pups.

In the apartment, when he sees someone walk by the apartment he will bark. I will tell him after 2-3 barks, to leave it. He will actually turn around and look at me like he's looking to me to say it's ok which I do. Am I doing that right? It works, he will stop barking.
 

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
I think Titan's reaction is that he doesn't like people (specifically men) to come close to the apartment. It's not a malicious bark or I'm going to kill them bark unless it's man, then it's I'm going to kill you bark.

I have noticed that if he doesn't like someone other than they are a man, his hair goes up, he licks his lips, tail wags very fast and he locks in on them. If he does that, I know the person is not a good person. I move away quickly. Remember, I'm always packing so if I encounter danger, I will not hesitate to shoot.
 

Maks

Active Member
I think that will really help. One of the trainers I talked to told me that I was going about introductions to new people all wrong. Saying that if he growled and wanted to run off that I was letting him control the situation and only worsening my problem. I was confused because I can't and won't force him on someone because I feel like that's just asking for trouble. The fact that you say, immediately recall the dog makes way more sense to me.

Is there a place on this site where we can submit our fees??....lol. I feel like you've given us more advice than people we have contacted in hopes to hire and I really appreciate it. :)

So, it sounds like it's a socialization issue. I went thru this with a recent rescue. This isn't always a easy one, it's not a hard process but it takes time, once they have been in the pattern your describing.

One thing I really focused on was "owning" the intro to a new person.. I would let her meet (1) person at a time. I made them stay where they were and I would hand them a few of treats to give to her, I would tell her to say Hi or whatever the term you use. Allow the dog to approach at their speed and take the treat, then immediately recall the dog (the leash should stay on the dog and in your hand the whole time).

No talking to the people or additional petting, I want the dog to take the food (associate the person with something good) and that's it.. move on. I did this with dozen's and dozen's of folks which basically just built up her confidence that new people weren't all trouble. You make sure you own the situation and be loud and vocal with the people so you end the meeting on a good note with the dog. If the dog doesn't want to meet the person move on, also know just like people dogs have there days.. some are better than others.. you just gotta keep at it.

As for objects I would walk up 6/7 feet from the object and use the leash to ensure the dog was at my side (in-line with my feet) not hiding behind me, they will try to back up.. growl.. whine etc. Just stand your ground and you can tell them it's ok etc, don't try to get any closer.. they will usually go thru a sniffing stage right there and lay down after a few minutes. Once I get that I move on to the next object (I did this in my neighborhood, garbage cans were a issue and a few other things).. then I repeat this same thing for a week.. then next week I go back to the same objects and get closer.. same deal, at some point your right up to the object or the dog breaks and goes up and sniffs the object and I praise them real big for this.

Hope that helps?
 

joshuagough

Well-Known Member
LOL you aint going to force to many Mastiff's into much of anything.. the goal with the recall and quickness of the "meeting" is a lot of win's (positive endings).. if the interaction of you&yourdog and the new person intro always ends good it changes what the dogs "normal" experience is with "new folks". After several weeks of this I will slowly let someone pet him for 20 or so seconds.. then after another week I'll increase.. the goal being ending on a positive note and progressing the time.

Nope on the fee's, just promote Mastiff rescue.. dogs & training are a passion of mine. I enjoy seeing the light bulb turn on in peoples heads, it makes their dog better :D

I think that will really help. One of the trainers I talked to told me that I was going about introductions to new people all wrong. Saying that if he growled and wanted to run off that I was letting him control the situation and only worsening my problem. I was confused because I can't and won't force him on someone because I feel like that's just asking for trouble. The fact that you say, immediately recall the dog makes way more sense to me.

Is there a place on this site where we can submit our fees??....lol. I feel like you've given us more advice than people we have contacted in hopes to hire and I really appreciate it. :)
 
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Maks

Active Member
Haha, you're right about not forcing a mastiff. We are getting ready to head out of town for the holidays and I will actually have more time to work with him. Especially with new people, (family) that I know will play by the rules I set with him. I'm a little worried about taking him out of his element for a couple weeks, but there's not much I can do about that.

I'm jealous of your talent! But like you, if I had the talent, just knowing I could help someone else would make me feel good. Thanks again for your advice! :)

LOL you aint going to force to many Mastiff's into much of anything.. the goal with the recall and quickness of the "meeting" is a lot of win's (positive endings).. if the interaction of you&yourdog and the new person intro always ends good it changes what the dogs "normal" experience is with "new folks". After several weeks of this I will slowly let someone pet him for 20 or so seconds.. then after another week I'll increase.. the goal being ending on a positive note and progressing the time.

Nope on the fee's, just promote Mastiff rescue.. dogs & training are a passion of mine. I enjoy seeing the light bulb turn on in peoples heads, it makes their dog better :D