What's new
Mastiff Forum

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • Welcome back!

    We decided to spruce things up and fix some things under the hood. If you notice any issues, feel free to contact us as we're sure there are a few things here or there that we might have missed in our upgrade.

4months and Growling

Ant

New Member
Hello all. I have a 4 month male and he's growls when I go to put my hands next to or in his food!!!! I hand feed him a little then I put the bowl down give him 30 seconds and try to put my hand near or in his food he's growling again!!!!! HELP THIS CAN NOT GET OUT OF HAND!!!! THANKS
 

Max's mom

Well-Known Member
Others will chime in here, but you may want to consider NILF and hand feed your puppy every morsel of every meal until he's good with you near and around with food. Don't bite (or growl at) the hand that feeds you is an important lesson for every puppy!
 

Ginurse

Well-Known Member
Hello all. I have a 4 month male and he's growls when I go to put my hands next to or in his food!!!! I hand feed him a little then I put the bowl down give him 30 seconds and try to put my hand near or in his food he's growling again!!!!! HELP THIS CAN NOT GET OUT OF HAND!!!! THANKS

I second Max's mom. He should not get even the tiniest morsel unless it comes from your hands. If he growls, the food gets put away, and you try again in an hour or so? We hand fed our pup for the first couple weeks after he came to us, and he has no resource guarding at this point.

I don't own a CC, so things may be different with this breed?
 

karennj

Well-Known Member
One recommendation that I have heard and think is great is to put the bowl down empty and wait for him to look to you. When he does give your good job cue and throw a piece or 2 in. Wait for him to look to you again for the food. Keep throwing in just a bit slowly getting closer to the bowl. You want to work your hands closer and make him look to you to keep replenishing his bowl. Eventually you will spend his whole meal with your hands right next to his bowl as you slowly add the food once he looks to you. If he ever growls, freezes, hunches over the bow, etc. you say no and walk away (and the food bowl stays empty for awhile), then try again going a little slower. Eventually you work up to 1/4 of his meal before you add more with your hands there the whole time. Build up to a whole bowl at which point you move away once he is given it. Then you start to approach and drop something even better than his food in the bowl (chicken, steak, hotdog, cheese, whatever). Throw it in and then walk away. Keep doing this until your approached gets him excited for his special treat. Once he is excited by your approach for a bit then wean off the treats to only every so often when you approach. So approach most times and give nothing but praise but every so often give him that jackpot. By the end he will understand all food comes from you and when your hands come near his bowl you are going to give something better. Do not take his bowl away just to prove you can. He is afraid of you taking what he holds valuable and taking away the bowl will just reinforce that fear. You want positive associations not negative ones.
 

season

Well-Known Member
Here's what works for me. Put food in bowl. Put dog in sit. Make sure he's making eye contact. Put bowl down while dog is still in sit. Make him wait and make him wait longer. Give him the signal to eat. I keep the food bowl between my legs initially. Letting him know it's my bowl. Repeat the same routine you did initially. Your dog needs to know that you are in charge of the bowl. His food. Call it NILF, call it whatever you want. In the end it's about leadership. Rules, boundaries and limitations. Practice the exercise daily. I know some say don't take the food away while they are eating. I get that. Makes sense, but that being said, with the work I've done with Solo, I can take his food away from him and he'll sit, make eye contact and wait until I put it down.

[video=youtube;pKiV9E1V05I]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKiV9E1V05I[/video]
 

PrinceLorde13

Well-Known Member
Raising the dish off the floor can also help, it stops the dog from standing over it in an already guarded position.
 

Kimba

Active Member
I did and still do exactly what season does. My dog is not allowed to even go near his bowl until I give him the ok - and he makes eye contact with me the entire time while waiting for that release. I also stroke him while he's eating - put my hand in his bowl etc. When he was younger (he's 7 months now) if he made any fuss or noise - the bowl came up and we repeated the whole process. Patience is key. He really does need to know that YOU are in charge of his food in every way.
 

season

Well-Known Member
I did and still do exactly what season does. My dog is not allowed to even go near his bowl until I give him the ok - and he makes eye contact with me the entire time while waiting for that release. I also stroke him while he's eating - put my hand in his bowl etc. When he was younger (he's 7 months now) if he made any fuss or noise - the bowl came up and we repeated the whole process. Patience is key. He really does need to know that YOU are in charge of his food in every way.

Exactly...I feed Solo the same way fed him when I brought him home. Sometimes I mix it up by having him in "place" when I bring out the food and set it down. Either way, he doesn't eat until I give him the signal.
 

karennj

Well-Known Member
I agree that impulse control is VERY important and the video above shows how you should start feeding from the beginning to teach impulse control and to help prevent guarding. The problem is your dog is already showing guarding so you can try to "claim" the food and he may comply but that underlying fear of having the food taken away is not being dealt with. He may understand he needs to deal with you taking his food but when someone else tries it who has not "claimed" it like a friend/visiting child will he revert back and snap? I would work to change the way he feels about people approaching/being around his food first by making positive associations using the steps provided at the start of this thread with you first, then family then friends. Change his feelings then worry about impulse control (soooooooo important). If you don't and try this you may end up teaching him that communicating with you that he is uncomfortable with something results in negative things (you go to put his food down, he growls, you pick it back up, he thinks his communication (growling) resulted in him loosing his food and next time does not growl when he is uncomfortable with something and goes straight to the next step.
 

HeatherA

Well-Known Member
i too put all of mine in the sit before eating i put the bowl down and keep eye contact until i say ok, they will not even think about looking at that bowl until i say ok. i also stroked their backs and put my hand all over their bowl and food while they were younger. like everyone has laready said you need to be in control of the food not the other way around...
I like the idea Karennj put up there adn think to start out you should follow that!!
 

karennj

Well-Known Member
Here is the link to the video on youtube - [video=youtube;pKiV9E1V05I]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKiV9E1V05I"]www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKiV9E1V05I[/video]

I think as well as making them wait and be calm you should also occasionally touch the bowl, pet them and walk up to them while they are eating occasionally throwing something really yummy in the bowl. Have others do it as well when they are young so they build positive association with all those things. Same goes for bones, chews, beds, etc. Dogs resource guard all sorts of things.

There are lots of impulse exercises you can do with your pups. Ater come, probably the most important thing to teach.
 

DennasMom

Well-Known Member
And TRADE UP!

Put the dish down - use all the above techniques - and then... after he eats a bit... let him know you're near (don't surprise him)... and ask him to look at you and/or sit... and when he does ADD SOMETHING YUMMY to the dish, and return it to him - using the sit/wait/release technique, just like you did when you first put it down.

Let him know that your hands near his bowl mean something GOOD might be coming (not that the food might go away).
Do let him eat in peace, but randomly adding Treats and Special stuff will help him to look forward to your hand getting close, versus the opposite.
Guarding food is a natural instinct, you have to teach him why that's not necessary.

This is very similar to the "wait" command (also highly recommended as a first command) - "Wait" = just wait, and I'll get you what you want... (and the corollary, if you don't wait, you don't get it = NILF).
 

2Bullmastiffs&aCaneCorso

Well-Known Member
We had really bad food aggression issues with our corso puppy and the video ESTABLISHING PACK STRUCTURE WITH THE FAMILY PET on the Leerburg website has completely changed our lives. The social isolation stage was super hard to do in the beginning and the training was a lot of work but we now have a 10 month old Corso who I can take raw bones out of his mouth as well as take his food bowl if need be.
I will add that we tried two trainers as well as numerous other methods before this but until pack structure is achieved with you and your family members being the alphas you will have an aggressive dog.
My breeder recommended this video and we actually had to go through the pack structure training 2 times as he had been getting away with the aggression for too long.
This information in this video is absolutely vital for anyone who wants a well behaved dog.
There are many helpful videos and numerous free articles etc on the Leerburg site as well :)